EcoFoodie

Better Late than Never: A New Year's Recipe

2012-01-21T05:50:00.000-08:00

Better late than never. These days, between work, baby, and life in general, it has sort of become my motto. I've had to let go of my uber-punctual, schedule-obsessed ways and just take things as they come, do what I can, and accept that I will never finish my to-do list on any given day. Truth be told, it's been a wonderful side effect of the baby madness. There's a lot to be said for taking things one moment at a time.

And so, last night, I finally found myself preparing my good luck black eyed peas. You know, the ones that you're supposed to eat on New Year's Day. Not sure if they still hold any power by the middle of the month but, if nothing else, they tasted amazing. Here's what I threw together last night in order to make good use of some Swiss chard, butternut squash, and onions from last week's market. Easy peasy and oh so hearty on a snowy winter night. Don't have any chard in the fridge? No squash on your countertop? All of the produce used here came from the winter farmers market in Cambridge. They'll be open from 10-2 again today and you can grab all of this and more. Hope to see you there!

**You may notice that lovely little Hop Noir hiding out in the background. This was an impulse purchase at City Feed, and may be my favorite beer of all time. Made by peak organic, a small brewery in Maine, it was an absolute taste treat and a perfect cold weather beer.**

Black Eyed Peas with Swiss Chard and Quinoa

Ingredients
1-2 cloves garlic, minced
1 bunch Swiss chard (stems chopped and separated from the leaves)
Black eyed peas (canned here because that's what I bought in a rush on NYE--dried would be better)
1 c quinoa (I used white but red would be gorgeous with this)

Bring two cups water to a boil. Add a smidge of salt and the quinoa. Simmer, covered, for about 15 minutes until the water is fully absorbed. (Check your package directions just in case your particular quinoa calls for something different.) For more flavor, you can use 1 cup chicken stock and 1 cup water, or add sauteed onions, or herbs...the sky's the limit here. For this recipe though, I opted to keep things simple so that the chard could shine through.

While the quinoa is cooking, sautee garlic in olive oil over low heat, being careful not to burn. When garlic begins to soften, add the chopped chard stems. After 3-5 minutes, add leaves. (You can tear these into smaller pieces or leave them whole, depending on their size. I usually opt for tearing.) Cook until tender. Add black eyed peas (very well rinsed if you're using canned) and heat through. Serve over a heaping pile of warm quinoa. Enjoy!

Butternut Squash Soup

Ingredients
2 T olive oil
1-2 T butter (optional)
1 Butternut squash
1 onion, coarsely chopped
Fresh thyme (or dried, in a pinch)
4-6 c chicken stock

Preheat over to 425. Split the squash in half lengthwise, remove the seeds, and roast, cut side up and covered with tin foil, for 45 minutes or until fork tender. When the squash is finished, sautee onion and thyme over low heat in a large soup pot. You can stick to the olive oil here or throw in a little butter--I find the butter adds a depth of flavor without making it overly rich. When the onion is clear and tender, scoop out the squash and add it to the pot along with 4 cups of chicken stock. Bring to a simmer. Blend until smooth with an immersion blender (you can also transfer in batches to a blender of food processor, but if you do not have a handheld blender you should get one immediately--it is quite possibly my favorite kitchen tool). Add more stock or water if the soup is too thick--this will depend on your squash and will be a little different every time. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Enjoy!

Hey, Paula

2012-01-20T05:55:00.000-08:00

There has always been a special place in my heart for PaulaDeen. As a child of the south, I ate my fair share of fried chicken and collard greens with fat back. But, thanks to a very health-conscious mother, I also ate plenty of brown rice, kale, and pressedsalad--if you don’t know what pressed salad is, don’t ask. And although thesedays my diet is much more inclined in the latter direction, the deepest currents ofmy food cravings will forever be tinted by hot buttered biscuits and deep fried chicken livers. My father andI enjoyed those as a special treat when I was young. By the bucket.

For me, watching Paula cook has never been about the searchfor new recipes or cooking ideas. Nor is it about nostalgia; although there are many who would consider her a queen of southern food, her dishes don't often bear much resemblance to the cuisine that I knew. Too much of it comes out of cans or packages, or simply smothers the ingredients in bread crumbs and fat. Really, as withmany people I know, watching Paula cook is all about the spectacle. Think two sticks ofbutter seems excessive for one dessert? Paula will use three. And if that’s notrich enough, how about just straight up deep frying it? Yup. Melon balled spheres of butter, breaded and deep fried. I watched her make them. I watched her eatthem. I felt sick for the entire 30 minutes, but I couldn't look away. It's a freak show as much as a cooking show. Something you pull up on Hulu on a lazy Fridaynight when you’re looking to be shocked and amazed.

Full disclosure: as conscious as I am ofwhat I eat and where it comes from, the notion of throwing all caution to the wind and eating a concoction made from butter,canned condensed milk, and some sort of flavored powder seems sinfully liberating. We can have our butter and eat it too, all in the spirit of good, crazy, Paula Deen fun. Who wants to worry about something boring like health? I mean, if it tastes good, let's eat it. By the bucket.

Enter diabetes. As most of you surely know by now, Paulaannounced last week that she was diagnosed a few years ago with Type 2 (alsoknown as adult onset) diabetes. This is, of course, one of the most seriousproblems facing Americans and our healthcare system today. And, we must alladmit, if Paula Dean’s actual diet bears any resemblance to what she cooks onher show, it is no great surprise that she has developed the disorder. I firstheard the news in passing, and while my first thought was of concern for her health, it was quickly followed by the idea this here was anopportunity. Who better to reach out to all of us who love rich, fatty, sugaryfoods and show us a way toward moderation? There are hoards of us, and there aren't may people better poised to reach that audience than the queen of overindulgence herself. Her bubbly personality can make just about anything appealing, and here was her chance to really put it toward good use.

Instead, Deen has found a very different way to profit from her disease. She came right out of the gate endorsing a diabetes drug made by Novo Nordisk, along with her two sons, neither of whom have the disease. Score for big Pharma and the Deen family, tough luck for the rest of us. With more and more American's faced with diet-related health issues--including the terrible lack of access to fresh food in so many urban communities--I find it particularly devastating to see such a beloved public figure leave her power on the proverbial plate. As a chef, she could be preaching the power of food to impact health and quality of life. She could transform the way that Americans relate to their pantries. She could help to turn the kitchen into a place where we think first of nourishing ourselves and our families, even with the occasional dinner of fritters and pudding. Instead, she says to us, head to your nearest pharmacy, and leave a little bit of your money in my pocket while you're at it.

In the recent Times article covering Paula's revelation, Anthony Bourdain is said to have called her the "'worst, most dangerous person' on the Food Network," because of the unhealthy nature of her food. (Many would counter that even the fanciest French chefs rely on a whole lotta butter, but I would say that there's also an element of moderation that goes along with that type of cooking, and it is absent in Paula's world.) His comment, while harsh, reflects a reality that I had previously ignored: while I may view Paula's show as a culinary amusement ride, there are many, many people who identify deeply with both the woman and the way she cooks, and there is nothing amusing about failing to consider the impact that your celebrity may be having on the health of thousands upon thousands of people.

Is Paula Deen personally responsible for our epidemics of obesity and diabetes? Clearly, she is not. Is she personally responsible for turning these issues around? Again, certainly not. But there is no denying that with a shift in her message she could use her considerable power to help the very people who are responsible for her remarkable success. Shame on her if she doesn't.

New Year, New Markets

2012-01-16T06:34:00.000-08:00

Somehow, over a year has passed since I posted on the growing trend toward winter farmers markets in Massachusetts. And, somehow, I have managed to put together only one post since that time. Yes, it would be easy to feel embarrassed and chagrined at such a poor blogging performance, but I'm inclined to go easy on myself--new babies, full time jobs, and freelancing do not a busy blogger make, at least not around here. But, it's a new year and I'm newly organized, so you can expect to be seeing a lot more action on the Ecofoodie scene. And, although it may seem repetitive, I wanted to start with a quick note about this year's winter market bounty.

Since that second-to-last post, the number of winter markets in Massachusetts has mushroomed, and they are absolutely worth a (weekly) visit. This winter, Bostonians (and near-Bostonians) can find winter farmers markets in Cambridge, Somerville, and beyond, and there are three (yes, three!) markets in Boston proper--one in the Belvedere Arcade at the Prudential Center, one in the South End, and another in Dorchester. Amazingly, every one of these markets will play host to fresh produce from multiple Mass farms, including Red Fire, Enterprise and Winter Moon, which grows exclusively winter root crops. (If you have not yet tasted a Winter Moon carrot, get thee to a market this weekend and try a sample--you will never buy a supermarket carrot again!) Many of these new urban markets were born out of a desire to improve year-round access to fresh, healthy food, particularly for low-income residents. (The Boston Bounty Bucks program allows SNAP users to get 50% off of their market purchases up to $20, and all of these winter markets are participating.) There's also a wealth of things to do while you shop, from cooking demos, to live music, to educational activities for the kiddos. Personally, my son and I stumbled into a little slice of perfection last week in Cambridge: mama sipped coffee and nibbled an almond croissant while baby danced and toddled to a little acoustic guitar. Saturday morning heaven.

Since the holidays, we've been heading to a different market every week and happily warming our bones with the harvest. Sweet roasted beets and carrots, potato and kale soup, and even a little greenhouse salad mix for a grassy, oh-so-fresh taste of summer. This weekend we'll be checking out the scene in Dorchester, and I promise to post some pics.

To read more about how these markets are changing the face of their communities and to see the full list of market locations and times, click here to take a peek at my most recent article for Edible Boston. Happy shopping, and even happier eating!

A New (Yummy) Twist on Pumpkin

2011-11-16T04:48:00.000-08:00

When it comes to pie, pumpkin is not my favorite. I'm just not a fan of the often goopy texture--I'd much rather have a slice full of crisp, cinnamon apples or crunchy pecans. I do love the flavor of pumpkin though, so when I got a pie pumpkin in my farm share recently, I got inspired to make something delicious. I adapted the recipe below from one I found on Epicurious, and the result was amazing. Light, fluffy little treats full of fall spice and pumpkin goodness. I only got to enjoy one as the rest were destined for my son's birthday celebration at daycare, where they were reportedly devoured with much zeal by a roomful of toddlers. I'll certainly be making them again soon. And if you have a spare pumpkin leftover from Thanksgiving (even if it's in a can), I recommend you do the same!

Pumpkin Spice Muffins

Ingredients

1 sugar pumpkin (aka pie pumpkin)--you can also substitute one can of *real* pumpkin here

2 c all purpose flour

2 t baking powder

1/4 t baking soda

1.5 t ground cinnamon

1 t ground ginger

1/8 t ground cloves

1/2 t salt

1 stick unsalted butter, melted

3/4 c packed light brown sugar

1/4 c sour cream

1/4 c applesauce

2 large eggs

1 t pure vanilla extract

Directions

Pumpkin

Apparently pumpkin can cook up relatively quickly in the microwave, but I tend to opt for roasting when it comes to my root vegetables. It's easy, tasty, and you don't have to worry about cleaning up messy orange explosions. Simply slice the pumpkin in half, scoop out the seeds, drizzle with a little olive oil and roast cut-side down on a sheet pan at 350 until soft. Cooking times can vary depending on the moisture content of your pumpkin, but I would start checking for doneness after about half an hour. In the meantime, you can rinse your pumpkin seeds, toss them in a little salt and oil and throw them in the oven as well! Just give them a stir every few minutes until they're nice and crispy. Bonus.

Muffins

Preheat oven to 400. Butter your muffin pan if it's not nonstick.

Whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, spices, and salt in a large bowl.

In another bowl, whisk together butter, brown sugar, pumpkin , sour cream, apple sauce, eggs, and vanilla. Add to the dry ingredients and stir until just combined.

Spoon batter into muffin tins. Bake for about 20 minutes, until a fork comes out clean. Best enjoyed while still warm along with a steaming cup of tea or cider. Yum!

Note: If you want to add a little texture, the Epicurious recipe calls for plumped golden raisins (just soak them in hot water for five minutes before adding to batter) and pumpkin seeds in the muffins, as well as some pumpkin seeds sprinkled on top. A dab of cream cheese frosting would also do quite nicely...

Photo courtesy of Sultry, via Flickr creative commons

Winter's Bounty: Find Some Local Inspiration in the Snow

2011-01-13T05:03:00.000-08:00

Today marks the second blizzard of the season for Massachusetts, and while it's certainly lovely to cozy up to a snowy window with a steaming cup of tea, this weather can make the fresh, local bounty of the farmers market season feel like a figment of the imagination. Around this time of year I often face a bout of the winter blues, not just because I'm so uncomfortable in the bitter Boston cold, but also because I find myself at such a loss in the kitchen. The refrigerator that has been overflowing with greens and tomatoes all summer, then carrots and kale through the fall, is suddenly bare, bereft of vegetables and of inspiration--a couple of turnips in the produce drawer just don't cut it. Neither do the supermarket staples of pale, limp lettuce in a plastic bag or washed out tomatoes from Mexico. What's a New England girl to do when her CSA has ended and the coldest months of winter still remain?

Last year I found some respite in the winter farm share from Enterprise Farm, which operates under the mostly-local idea of an East Coast food shed: lots of food from Massachusetts and some from family farms along the coast. It's certainly better to get a couple of zucchini from Georgia than from South America somewhere. This year, thanks to the amazing folks at Red Fire Farm, we'll be getting a truly local farm share through the heart of winter, with a mix of storage veggies, greenhouse greens, and products made by area vendors from the local summer harvest. What will such a share really include? I've been wondering the same thing, and with the first share arriving tomorrow I finally know what deliciousness awaits: there will be shallots, butternut squash, celery root (hooray!), carrots, and spinach, just to name a few. And we'll have pickles from Real Pickles and frozen Red Fire green beans. I can already feel the creative juices flowing...celery root soup? radish salad? roast butternut squash with a spinach and shallot stuffing? The possibilities will be endless once again, and EcoFoodie recipes will be soon to follow!

For those of you without a regular Winter CSA, do not despair. Thanks to the ongoing work of the Federation of Massachusetts Farmers Markets and the many farmers and vendors with whom they partner, winter farmers markets have become an increasingly common affair. There are weekly markets across the state throughout the season, with all kinds of goodies to be discovered. For all you Bostonians, there are markets in Dedham, Natick, and Somerville--no matter where you are there are fresh, local ingredients nearby. So slap on those snow boots and head to the market this weekend. Much yumminess and inspiration await!

To find a market near you, click here and type 'winter' into the "Enter part of the name of a Market" field.

Photo by paige_eliz via Flickr Creative Commons.

Old Ideas for a New Year

2011-01-07T04:55:00.000-08:00

Sometimes the best new ideas are the ones that aren't new at all, but rather a rediscovery of methods and means whose wisdom has been known for ages. When it comes to cooking, this idea is heralded repeatedly by those who advocate for slower, more local eating. The Slow Food movement, in addition to working toward food that is "Good, Clean, and Fair," points us back to vanishing cooking styles and heirloom ingredients, along with the increasingly uncommon practice of sitting down to enjoy a meal we've prepared with family and friends. Michael Pollan, one of the most prominent voices in the local food movement, tells us: "Don't eat anything your grandmother wouldn't recognize as food." Simple enough, and an easy way to navigate around the many processed food-ish creations that inhabit our modern supermarkets. Mark Bittman, cookbook author and writer for the New York Times, is also a voice for more planet-friendly eating, and as part of theTimes' New Year's section on sustainability offers an alternative to the countless diet crazes that emerge at this time of year: "Chop, Fry, Boil: Eating for One, or 6 Billion."

The concept is easy to embrace: three simple recipes--stir fry, rice and lentils, and a chopped salad--that can form the foundation of a lifetime of healthy cooking and eating. As Bittman states, they are techniques as much as recipes. Once mastered, they can be adapted to fit any locale or time of year, incorporating local, seasonal produce and whatever personal flourish the chef desires. Also important, they can all make for full meals without meat, an element that can be difficult to find in planet-friendly form. For so many of us who have fallen away from cooking in our daily lives, these easy, classic meals provide a re-entry point into a healthy, fulfilling relationship with our kitchen, one that can be passed on to our children during the evening hours in place of so much excess screen time.

Personally, I'm going to start with the rice and lentils. For years now I've been swayed from such dishes by my bean loathing husband, but maybe with a little extra flair I can win him over...full report to follow in the coming weeks.

Click here for the stir fry recipe, here for rice and lentils, and here for chopped salad.

Happy New (Old) Eating!

Sweets for Your Holiday Sweet, Local Style

2010-12-13T04:52:00.000-08:00

At this time of year, amidst the festive flurry of holiday parties and visits, many of us find ourselves scrambling to identify just the right gift for our loved ones (especially those of us with a newborn at home, who may not have had time for the usual latte and window shopping...sigh). This can be especially tricky when one of those most dear to us is particularly difficult to gift.

My father, a hard working academic who is perpetually immersed in the writing of one paper or another, is just such a person. What to get for the professor who eats, sleeps, and breathes Finance? Every year I consider a variety of possibilities and, just as quickly, rule them all out. An interesting book on an economic issue? (Nope--he probably knows it all already.) A nice tie or sweater? (This seemed good for a while, but Lord & Taylor can only carry you so far.) A gadget for the grill? (Nope. Dad does like to grill, but he's not a gadget kind of guy.)

Finally, a few years ago, I stumbled upon a simple solution: turron. For those of you not familiar with this treat, turron is an almond-based, Spanish Christmas candy, of which I consumed copious quantities when I lived there. I had a hankering for it over the holidays and was searching for it on line when it hit me--dad loves almonds, he loves simple flavors, and, in spite of his remarkable self restraint, he definitely loves sweets. Three boxes of Turron de Alicante were soon en route to his doorstep that year and were devoured within 24 hours of their arrival...or so the story goes. Sweet success! Now, each year, in addition to whatever attempt I make at an inspired gift for my father, there are always a couple of boxes of turron, sure to please and to give him a rare opportunity to overindulge.

Of course, the one thing that could make this gift even better is if it were locally made and crafted. After all, shipping candy all the way from Spain to New Orleans is not the most sustainable practice. Thankfully, with the steady rise of the local food movement, many foodie entrepreneurs are creating delectable treats with local, seasonal ingredients. And, with so much care and craftsmanship behind these products, the quality often surpasses that of the mass-produced name brands that many of us associate with holiday fancies. Such is the case with the remarkable sweets made by Valerie Conyngham of Vianne Chocolat, whom I recently wrote about in the winter issue of Edible Boston. Based in butter and cream from small, local dairies, her chocolates are infused with local products and produce. Her strawberry balsamic chocolate includes a strawberry jam from the Copley farmers market, and her fall flavors include pumpkin seeds and apple, two unusual companions for chocolate that could only come from being locally inspired. The brilliance of giving such sweets as a gift is that, in addition to the exceptional, creative flavors, you're supporting local business and agriculture and the many individuals who work so hard to make local, sustainable eating a truly viable option, even when it comes to fine chocolates. You can tell your special someone that, in addition to the fun and tasty treat, you've made a contribution to a very important cause in his or her honor--sweet success, doubled!

For more information on where to find Vianne Chocolat or how to order on line, visit Valerie's website. And, if I were you, I'd pick up a little box for myself as well. After all, such thoughtful, responsible holiday shopping deserves a little reward!

Happy Shopping, Happy Eating, and Happy Holidays!

An Ecofoodie Baby

2010-11-16T10:54:00.000-08:00

Welcomed into the world on November 3rd,

currently cause for much joy, exhaustion, and a short Ecofoodie hiatus.

Back soon!

Homemade Pasta, Close to Home

2010-09-17T13:01:00.000-07:00

As mentioned in a previous post, I recently had the pleasure of spending some time with the lovely ladies of Nella Pasta at the Crop Circle Kitchen in Jamaica Plain. Each week they make fresh pasta that is "locally handcrafted, wholesome, and simple," just as it states on every batch they sell.

Their story is a classic tale of the unexpected blessings that can come from a bad economy. Leigh and Rachel met while working desk jobs that neither of them found particularly inspiring, only to discover that they shared a passion for food and had attended culinary programs just blocks from each other in Florence a few years before. They eventually began planning a pasta business in their free time, but the ultimate jump start came with company cutbacks--when the two of them were laid off on the same day they went straight to the coffee shop across the street and started carving out their business plan in earnest.

An important part of that plan involved working with local farmers and producers to incorporate seasonal ingredients as fresh as the pasta itself. As a result, they've developed ongoing relationships with local farms like Stillman's and Allandale, and have even begun getting some of their flour from Four Star Farms in Northfield, MA. (You, too, can get some great local grains there--check out their website for details!) This commitment to working with local, sustainable, organic ingredients means that Nella Pasta recipes are different each week, keeping it exciting for both its creators and its lucky consumers. Springtime means asparagus goes into the mix, while fall brings treats like ravioli with brown butter, white bean, cranberry and fresh thyme--you won't find that in any chain supermarket!

Where do you find it, you ask? Currently, the ladies are selling pastas, pestos (kale and spiced pumpkin seed, anyone?), and pasta salads at the Lexington and Hingham farmers markets. Their pasta salads can also be found at City Feed in JP and the Equal Exchange Cafe. If none of these spots are close to you, keep your eye on the Locations tab of their website for new markets, and ask your own local food market to carry them!

For me, in addition to the satisfaction that comes from choosing a product that supports a whole chain of local farmers and producers, cooking with Nella Pasta also carries the joy of being inspired by an ingredient in a new way. Leigh and Rachel were kind enough to send me home with samples of their weekly varieties, including wheat & ground flax seed and a jewel-toned roasted beet linguine. And while lately I've been much less inclined to lug my 8-months-pregnant belly around the kitchen after a long day at work, this pasta got me back on my cooking feet! Every noodle was hearty and flavorful, leading me to wonder how I ever even considered eating dried up pasta out of a cardboard box. Below are some recipes I whipped up with farm share ingredients I had on hand, and you can also check out their website for more tasty ideas. Or better yet, stop by one of their farmers market stands and see what they're recommending for seasonal "inside out ravioli." You can grab your fresh pasta and produce right there and have an inspiring night of your own in the kitchen!

And don't forget--there are still a few days left to help Nella Pasta win Daily Candy's "Start Small, Go Big" contest, so please be sure to vote!

Whole Wheat & Ground Flaxseed Linguine with Thyme Brown Butter & Delicata Squash

I kept this recipe relatively simple in order to let the flavors of the pasta really come through. The rich, hearty flavor of the linguine paired oh so deliciously with nutty, herby brown butter and sweet roasted squash!

Ingredients

1 lb Nella Pasta whole wheat & ground flaxseed linguine

Two medium delicata squash (or any other winter squash you have on hand)

2 T olive oil

3 T chopped fresh thyme leaves

pinch salt

freshly ground pepper

1/2 stick unsalted butter

freshly grated Parmesan or Pecorino Romano cheese (you could also substitute a yummy soft cheese here--verboten to me at the moment)

Directions

Preheat the oven to 400 and put some water on to boil. Halve the squash, scrape out the seeds, and cut into 1/4 inch pieces--little half moons. Toss with olive oil, 1 T of the thyme, salt, and pepper. Arrange in a single layer on a baking sheet and cook for around 25-30 minutes, until fork tender.

When squash is just about done, heat the butter in a large skillet over medium heat, whisking frequently until the foam subsides and golden brown milk solids begin to form. You will know it's ready when it has a rich, nutty aroma. Keep a close eye until it's done though, as it can burn in a heartbeat! Remove from heat and whisk in the remaining 2 T thyme. There may be a second round of foam with the fresh herb. Simply whisk until it subsides.

Set aside the brown butter, drop your pasta into boiling, lightly salted water, and do not walk away! It will truly be ready in about a minute's time and you don't want it to overcook. Give it a good swirl around the pot and test frequently for doneness--it's best when al dente, which makes for a nice hearty, toothy texture.

When pasta is ready, drain and toss with brown butter and squash. Serve topped with a sprinkling of cheese. Yummy.

Roasted Beet Linguine with Walnut Parsley Pesto

Again, I wanted to keep this recipe relatively simple so as not to mask the flavors and colors of the pasta--witness the beautiful beet linguine, pictured below.

Ingredients

1 lb Nella Pasta beet linguine

2 c packed flat leaf parsley leaves

3/4 c toasted walnuts

1/4 c grated Parmesan cheese

1/4 c grated Pecorino Romano cheese

2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

2 t lemon zest

1/2 c extra virgin olive oil

pinch salt

freshly ground black pepper

Directions

Easy: Boil water. Combine first 6 pesto ingredients in food processor and blend until combined.

Stream in olive oil until the mixture loosens up enough to toss well with hot pasta (you can add more or less oil here as needed), and season with salt and pepper to taste. Drop your pasta, drain when al dente (again, this only takes about a minute), and toss with pesto. Top with a sprinkle of freshly grated cheese. Voila! Quick, delicious, and oh so fresh.

Penne with Fresh Sage & Mascarpone Cheese

For the heartier penne noodle I went with a good, creamy sauce. This recipe, adapted from Epicurious.com, makes for some incredible comfort food on a cool fall evening--fabulous enough for company but simple enough for a night of self-indulgence with a good movie on the couch!

Ingredients

1 lb Nella Pasta penne

1/2 T unsalted butter

1 clove garlic, diced

2 t homemade bread crumbs

3 t finely chopped fresh sage leaves (you can add even more here if you are a sage lover, like me!)

tiny pinch of salt

1/2 c mascarpone cheese

1/2 c freshly grated Parmesan cheese

freshly ground black pepper

While your pasta water is coming to a boil, heat the butter over medium heat until the foam subsides, stirring frequently. Add garlic and sautee until soft. Add bread crumbs, sage, and just a teensy touch of salt--the cheese already has plenty. Cook the sage and bread crumb mixture, stirring frequently, until golden brown. Set aside.

Drop the pasta when your water is boiling--the penne will need a little longer to cook than spaghetti or linguine, but keep a close eye on this as well! After two minutes, try a piece to see how close you are to al dente and continue testing frequently until you have the texture you like. Again, this noodle is fabulous if you keep it on the toothy side, especially with this rich, creamy sauce--it really holds its own.

When the pasta is ready, drain and pour back into the pot. Add the mascarpone, Parmesan, and a few good turns of freshly grated black pepper. Stir gently to combine. Serve topped with a generous dusting of the bread crumb mixture and enjoy!

Fall Fun for (Eco)Foodies

2010-09-16T15:37:00.000-07:00

This time of year is pretty fabulous for those of us who love fresh, varied produce from our local farms. You can get everything from tomatoes, to okra, to winter squash, all of it rich with flavor and good-for-you goodness. Us Bostonians are also blessed with a thriving network of people invested in the local food movement, which means there are plenty of opportunities to expand your mind along with your belly. Below are just a few events coming up in the next few weeks--be sure to check out the websites for more info on not only these events but future happenings. Enjoy!

Boston Local Food Festival

Saturday, October 2nd. Fort Point Channel.

This promises to be a veritable bonanza of local goodness, with everything your local-loving heart might possibly desire. You can sample everything from beer, to cheese, to bok choy and soak in all kinds of food-related demonstrations. I don't know what I'm more excited about...sustainable cooking with crepes or "retiring Ronald McDonald"! For more details about the festival and how to find your way there, visit http://bostonlocalfoodfestival.com/.

DIG IN! Volunteer with Slow Food Boston @ Earthworks or The Food Project

Saturday, September 25th.

What better way to spend a gorgeous fall Saturday than doing a few hours of good for a great local food organization, followed by a local potluck picnic? At The Food Project site, volunteers will help put the farm "to bed" for the winter and have the chance to learn more about their programs for urban youth. At Earthworks, helpers will mulch and renutriate the soil around trees and shrubs in their urban orchards, all of which are open for public picking. Either way, you can't go wrong! For more details on each project and how to get involved you can visit the Slow Food Boston events page. There, you can also learn about Slow Food's RAFT Dinners--the focus there is on heirloom varietals along with regional foods and traditions--as well as a book event this Friday for Food Heroes by Georgia Pellegrini.

Festivals, Festivals, Festivals.

You can treat yourself to local beers, homemade chili, cider donuts, and so much more if you just know where to be and when. Check out this list of New England food festivals compiled by Boston.com. You can also peruse the websites of local farms for more apple and fall-themed events, like the Cider Pressing, Harvest Potluck, and Scarecrow Contest at Red Fire Farm!

Markets, Markets, Markets.

Although the abrupt appearance of such crisp weather can make it feel like the growing season must be coming to an end, most local farmers markets will be open and overflowing through late October or even November. For a list of which markets are open and until when, visit www.massfarmersmarkets.org.

Going Local in P-town

2010-09-12T14:42:00.000-07:00

A couple of weeks ago, amidst the chaos of moving, painting, and other end of summer madness, my husband and I managed to escape to Provincetown for a short but wonderful weekend. In addition to catching the last night of carnival and perusing the galleries of Commercial Street (perfect painting for the new nursery--check!), we also managed to sample plenty of scrumptious local fare. Here are a few of our favorites, just in case you're planning a late season foray to the Cape yourself!

My husband procured some delectable oysters from this dude with a cart. Didn't manage to snap a pic of the fisherman himself (bearded and rubber booted, just as you imagine), nor could I sample the wares in my current state, but my husband will attest that Wellfleet oysters are just as good you've heard.

If you are an oyster lover or count yourself among the curious, you might consider spending a crisp, fall afternoon at the Wellfleet Oysterfest, coming up on October 16th & 17th. In addition to lots of delicious local bivalves, there will be a 5K road race, an arts & crafts fair, and a sure to be amazing shucking contest. Click here for the schedule of yummy events!

Saltwater taffy. The obligatory and oh so guilty stick-to-your-teeth pleasure.

By Saturday night, after so much walking, my baby belly demanded to stay in the hotel room and get some serious rest. Heartbreaking, given that we had planned to pay a visit to Tiny's restaurant, whose menu is comprised entirely of food grown or caught right there on Cape Cod. To my surprise and delight, my husband returned from a "pizza run" with Tiny's takeout, which included these savory roasted new potatoes and Cod cakes made with local, line caught Cod. We also enjoyed a light but creamy lobster corn chowder and some shrimp and bean sprout fritters...mmm... Be sure to pay their roof deck a visit when you go. It overlooks Commercial Street, which reliably makes for some fabulous people watching. If you look closely, you might even see a muscle man carrying a one-eyed dog in a baby carrier on his bare, tanned chest. File under: strange but true.

Cast Your Vote: Help Nella Pasta Go Big!

2010-09-10T13:16:00.000-07:00

This afternoon I had the pleasure of visiting the lovely ladies of Nella Pasta in their Jamaica Plain kitchen. I'll be posting more soon about their fresh, seasonal pastas and culinary treats, but in the meantime I wanted to encourage you all to vote for this local-minded business in Daily Candy's "Start Small, Go Big Contest." Winners will receive $10,000 to put toward their business along with a host of other educational and networking opportunities. Voting is a great opportunity to support your local food community--not only are you voting for Nella Pasta, but also the many small farms and producers from which they get everything from veggies to flour. (Witness the roasted beet linguine in the photo to the left--that gorgeous color is all local!)

From now until September 29th you can vote once a day via Facebook or on the Daily Candy website. So put a reminder in your calendar and add a quick vote to your daily web surfing regimen. It's worth the extra click of the mouse!

I Heart TED.

2010-08-24T09:59:00.000-07:00

Lately, I've been on the hunt for novel lunchtime activities at work. Sometimes I read, sometimes I catch up on a guilty reality pleasure via Hulu (Real Housewives, anyone?), and sometimes I just keep working. But when you work full time there are a lot of lunch hours to fill, and it's easy to feel like you're in a rut. Enter my new favorite lunchtime companion, TED.

Many of you are probably already well-acquainted--although I first stumbled upon TED videos last year via some clever friends on Facebook, the group has been in existence since 1984. The non-profit began as a conference designed to bring together thinkers from the fields of technology, entertainment, and design, and has since mushroomed into a powerful forum for forward thinking ideas on everything from gaming to public health. In addition to annual and traveling conferences, they've also begun awarding a TED prize, which this year went to Jamie Oliver for his work in promoting healthy eating and preventing obesity. You can watch his acceptance speech here. The fact that they chose the food-oriented work of a chef as this years winner speaks to the urgent need to change our current food systems, from kitchen counter to factory farm. And the importance of this discussion is represented in numerous videos on the site, covering topics ranging from sustainable seafood to world hunger. Hence, my new favorite lunch buddy, and one I highly recommend you get to know.

Today, I watched a thoughtful and moving talk by Cary Fowler, Executive Director of the Global Crop Diversity Trust, on the importance of preserving biodiversity in our agricultural systems. It's heartbreaking to hear how much we've already lost on this front, but it's heartening to learn that people in the world are crossing borders (thank you Norway) and truly taking care of business to ensure that we don't wind up facing starvation on a global scale. At just 17 minutes long, it's a more than worthwhile investment of your lunchtime. You can watch below or visit www.ted.com and search for other ideas that might float your lunchtime boat. Bon apetit!

Some Kale, A Few Tomatoes, and a Bun.

2010-08-17T13:45:00.000-07:00

What do these things have in common, you ask? Quite simple: they are all things I've been busy baking in the oven over the past few months, and I submit the last as my excuse for Ecofoodie's long silence, as it is a bun of the metaphorical variety. Yes, that's correct...an Ecofoodie baby! Due to arrive sometime around Halloween (boo!), this little muffin has been the source of much joy, nausea, and distraction of late, preventing me from doing much writing of any sort.

But now I'm back, with more recipes (some kale chips are in the works), events, and thoughts on sustainable eating. Very soon I'll be posting about upcoming Slow Food Boston events and some lovely ladies in Jamaica Plain who make seasonal pasta...yum! But for starters, here is my recipe for Roasted Tomato Pasta: simple, easy, and a perfect way to enjoy the end of summer tomato boom! Happy eating!

Roasted Tomato Pasta

Ingredients

2 pints (or thereabouts) of whatever small tomato variety looks good at the market

2-3 T olive oil

salt

pepper

angel hair pasta, or whatever long noodle you prefer

Parmesan cheese

fresh basil

Directions

Preheat the oven to 400. In the meantime, rinse tomatoes and spread in a single layer in a glass or ceramic baking dish. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper and toss with a good drizzle of olive oil. Roast the tomatoes for 40 minutes to an hour, depending on your oven. You'll know they're done when they've burst and begun to caramelize! Once they burst, they release their delicious juice, which mingles with the olive oil, salt, and pepper to make a wonderfully fresh sauce. Toss tomatoes and sauce with cooked pasta, sprinkle with some freshly grated Parmesan and a little fresh basil if you have it, and voila! Easy, tasty summer dinner.

Photo by Froge via Flickr Creative Commons.

Spring Has Sprung

2010-04-16T11:03:00.000-07:00

Last night, as I stashed all of the new goodies from my farm share into the refrigerator, I was happy to see that we had received both baby arugula and some mesclun mix for salads this week. Today, as I made my lunch, I was even more delighted (I may have actually cried out in glee) to discover that what I thought were salad greens were actually fiddleheads! Somehow, I have never had the opportunity to sample these harbingers of spring, so I am very excited to experiment with another farm share first.

My husband seems fairly certain that they are best enjoyed via a quick pan sautee and a dash of salt and pepper. However, the little wrinkle of doubt in his brow as he says so leads me to believe that some research is in order. So, this afternoon I will be forgetting about the cold and rain outside and happily perusing the internet and my cookbooks for a recipe for tomorrow evening. In the meantime, suggestions from fiddlehead connoisseurs are welcome! Happy, happy spring!

Tales From the Freezer...and a Recipe or Two.

2010-04-03T07:43:00.000-07:00

Last fall I made my first tiny attempts at food preservation. Being a renter with a rather quirky kitchen, my options were limited, but I wanted to make a go of it nonetheless. After all, if I'm ever going to go for a full scale canning, pickling, and drying operation I had to start somewhere, right?

Given the superoverabundance of farm share peppers and back yard basil that I found myself struggling with at the end of the summer months, I decided to give both treats a go round in the freezer. I vaguely recalled hearing that peppers could simply be chopped and thrown into a freezer safe container, and a little online research revealed that basil could be frozen in a variety of ways (to mixed reviews)--I opted to test out freezing chopped basil in both water and olive oil. Result? A mixed bag.

I'll start with the bad news. The basil, sadly, did not fare well in either form. I froze them in cubes in the ice tray, and when thawed...it looked more like fragments of ash than the delightful taste of summer that I'd hoped to preserve. Still worse, flavor seemed to have disappeared altogether. In short, this was a double fail. In hindsight, I suspect I may have tried to pack far too much basil into each tiny cube. Consequently, much of the leaves were exposed to the harsh freezer air rather than protected by a solid fortress of water or oil. In the end, I did find some success in freezing small batches of pesto I had made. It thawed out looking as green and fresh as the day it was born, and with a little dash of salt all of those fabulous summer flavors came right back to life. For the simple and easy recipe, click here.

Happily, the frozen peppers were a marvelous success. Not only were they much easier to prep for freezing than the basil--just wash, dry, and cut into whatever size and shape you desire--but they lasted through the whole winter without getting dry or freezer burnt. For the most part, I used them in my favorite new recipe, a veggie stir fry with peanut sauce. Thanks to my winter farm share with Enterprise Farm, I was able to combine my summer peppers with organic carrots, zucchini and other yummy produce from their East Coast Food Shed.

All in all, I'm happy to have discovered two reliable freezer methods for preserving the abundance of summer. As for the basil, if any of you lovely readers have had better luck with these methods or something altogether different, I would love to hear about it! In the meantime, enjoy this peanuty stir fry recipe, which can be made with just about any veggie you love, fresh or frozen.

Veggie Stir Fry with Spicy Peanut Sauce

Ingredients (makes enough for 2-3 people)

2 T unsweetened peanut butter

2 T warm water

1-2 T low sodium soy sauce

1 t rice vinegar

1/2 t sesame oil

3 t chili paste (less if you like it not so spicy!)

1 small head of broccoli

1 very large or two medium carrots

1 large or 2 small zucchini

1/2 red or vidalia onion

1 yellow or orange bell pepper

a sprinkle of sweet peas

2 cloves garlic

1 t diced fresh ginger (or several dashes of powdered)

Cooked brown rice or pot stickers

Directions

In a bowl or a large measuring cup, combine the peanut butter and water. Whisk until thoroughly blended, adding a touch more water if it's still very thick. Add 1 tablespoon of soy sauce along with the rice vinegar, sesame oil, and chili paste. If you don't have fresh ginger to cook with the veggies, add a few good dashes of powdered ginger here. Give a good stir and a taste. This sauce seems to work a little differently each time, so once you've got the base recipe feel free to add up to another tablespoon of soy sauce or a dash of any of the other ingredients in order to bring it into balance.

Julienne the carrots, zucchini, peppers, and onion (i.e. cut them into thin strips, matchstick-sized strips), chop the broccoli into small florets, and dice the garlic and ginger. Sautee the vegetables in olive oil, starting with those that take the longest to cook. For this particular combo, it's best to start with the broccoli, add the carrots, then add the zucchini, peppers, and onions. Save the peas for the very end so that they keep their lovely green color. Just before you add the peas, make a well in the center of the pan and add the garlic and ginger. Sautee for a minute or two and then stir them into the rest of the vegetables along with the peas.

Add your peanut sauce and serve over brown rice or pot stickers. Simple, quick, and tasty!

A Little Weekend Fun in the Sun

2010-03-24T06:30:00.001-07:00

After a few more days of wind and rain, many of us Bostonians are looking forward to enjoying a little sunshine over the weekend. If you count yourself among that many, here's one great way to spend a sunny Saturday. From 10:00-2:00, Earthworks will be hosting a volunteer day at their Edward L. Cooper Center Orchard, doing general cleanup, pruning raspberry bushes, preparing the soil, and transplanting some beech plums, just to name a few activities. If you're not familiar with Earthworks, they are a wonderful local non-profit that plants and cares for urban orchards as a means toward environmental education and creating a healthier, more sustainable city. They maintain orchards in urban areas across Boston, many of them in schoolyards, and the fruit is free for the picking throughout the summer and fall--you can find the orchard nearest you on their website. Needless to say, they do some fabulous work in our communities, and supporting the start to the growing season certainly sounds like a great way to spend a few hours on the weekend! If you're interested in joining them on Saturday, the details are below. And if you can't make it this weekend, not to worry--there will be volunteer days on April 24th and May 22nd as well. If you're interested, please call for times and details as the dates get closer.

The Edward L. Cooper Center is at 34 Linwood Street in Roxbury. There is plenty of room to park, and it's about a five minute walk from the Roxbury Crossing stop on the Orange line. Earthworks will provide you with all the tools and guidance you need, but long sleeves and pants are recommended as there may be some messy or thorny spots that need attention. Water will also be provided, and you should feel free to bring some snacks as well! If you plan on joining in the fun, please be sure to call the Earthworks office (617.442.1059) to let them know you'll be coming--they need to know how many people to expect.

My New Favorite Neighbor

2010-03-04T13:51:00.000-08:00

For the new issue of Edible Boston, I wrote an article about Community Servings, a remarkable organization just down the street from me in Jamaica Plain. In addition to providing healthy, nutritionally-balanced meals to the critically ill, they play host to a farmers market, a CSA, and a number of other programs centered in healthy, whole, sustainable food. They are a force for positive change in many underserved neighborhoods of Boston, and I am happy to count myself among their many regular volunteers.

To learn more about their work and how you can get in on the fun in their kitchen, click here.

Winter Blues

2010-02-27T07:50:00.000-08:00

Last summer marked the end of out-of-season berries for me. After devouring a few pints of sweet, local strawberries from the Copley Square farmers market, I just couldn't fathom eating colorless, tasteless fruit shipped all the way across the country. Such berries aren't good for the planet or the palate. Much better to dream of sweet perfection through the cold winter months and enjoy that brilliant taste of spring when it finally comes.

Yesterday, however, I discovered a large bag of frozen, organic blueberries in my freezer. I have no idea when or why I purchased said blueberries, but as a cold, dreary rain fell outside my winter window I felt my spirits lift a little. What to do with this accidental bounty? The clear choice: muffins. After a few minutes gathering ideas on the internet, I put together a recipe that turned out warm, blue, and delicious. Only one thing could make it better, and I can't wait to make these again when the blueberries are big, fresh, and plentiful. Perhaps this year I'll grab a few extra pints and freeze them myself, preserving a little taste of locally-grown sunshine to combat the February blahs. In the meantime, I would make them again with apple pieces, dried fruit, or sans fruit altogether. There's nothing bad about a cinnamon oatmeal muffin, after all!

Blueberry Oatmeal Muffins

Ingredients

1/2 c all purpose flour

3/4 c whole wheat flour

1 c oatmeal

1/2 c brown sugar, packed

1 t baking powder

1/2 t baking soda

1/4 t salt

1/2 t cinnamon

1 egg, beaten

1/2 c water

1/3 c vegetable oil

1 T vanilla

1 c blueberries (thawed and drained if frozen)

2 t sugar

1/2 t cinnamon

Directions

Preheat oven to 400.

In large bowl, mix first 8 ingredients. In small bowl, mix egg, water, oil, and vanilla. Add this mixture to the first bowl and stir until moistened. Fold in blueberries. Spoon into greased muffin tins filling each cup about 2/3 of the way.

Mix sugar and cinnamon and sprinkle over the tops. Bake for 20 minutes and enjoy, preferably while they're still warm! They also make a delicious next-day breakfast: warm them over in the toaster, top with plain yogurt and drizzle with honey. Heaven on a plate.

Un Petit Cafe

2010-02-26T04:33:00.001-08:00

When it comes to eating a diet that is as sustainable as possible, one of my daily struggles is coffee. I generally only have a cup in the morning, but boy do I need that cup to start my day. Not so much for the caffeine as for the rich, comforting warmth that only the aroma and flavor of coffee can provide. (I have nothing against tea and drink plenty of it, but it's just not the same.)

For years now, I have been buying only Fair Trade, Shade Grown, Organic coffee. But, one thing I have never managed to do is get up early to brew this sustainable coffee and take it into work with me four days a week. The result: I, like so many tired, coffee-loving people, find myself at Starbucks, ordering coffee whose origins are unknown to me and drinking it out of a bleached paper cup. Sure, from day to day it may not seem like a big deal, but when you think about how many of us grab a quick cuppa Joe each day (or two, or three), it adds up very quickly on two fronts. First, there is the quantity of waste we generate with all of those disposable cups, the most offensive arrangement being the giant plastic iced coffee cup doubled up with an even bigger styrofoam one (shame on you Dunkin Donuts). But, even more importantly, there's a great deal of power being exercised when that many consumers make a repeat, daily purchase. We could all walk out tomorrow and tell Starbucks we're not coming back until everything they serve is shade grown. And guess what? They would have to comply. It's easy to forget that, added together, our daily personal choices do make for a serious force in the business world. As Gary Hirshberg, the owner of Stonyfield, points out in Food, Inc., it's the reason that Wal-Mart no longer carries milk from hormone-treated cows. We do have a voice, and even our smallest choices matter.

With this in mind, I recently made an investment in a teeny tiny French press, pictured above next to some lovely fruit courtesy of Enterprise Farm. I used it at home this morning for fun, but starting this Monday I will get my daily coffee at my desk rather than at a counter. Thanks to this adorable contraption, I will know where my coffee comes from and how it was grown. I can drink it out of a ceramic mug that makes a much better hand warmer than cardboard. And, I can change my part of the group message to places like Starbucks, no longer sending the signal that everything they're doing is a.o.k. with me. All this, while saving myself a good bit of money as well. Tres magnifique!

Update: As noted by a coffee-minded reader (see comments), Starbucks does have better practices than many coffee retailers when it comes to how their beans are grown and traded, all of which is detailed on their newly revamped (and rather impressive) website. While I am aware that Starbucks does have some good practices, the issue for me is that I can't be sure what lies behind the daily variety on any given morning. According to the site, 75% of their coffee is currenty "repsonsibly grown, ethically traded," and they have set goals for environmental responsibility, though nothing I can see on shade growing. You can let them know that you appreciate their efforts to be responsible, transparent corporate citizens, and that you'd like to see them reach 100% by dropping them a line here. If they can reach that goal, busy coffee-lovers no longer have to worry that the variety in their re-usable mug falls into the 25% whose provenance is questionable. If you are a devoted Dunkin' drinker, or Peet's, or elsewhere, encourage them to raise their sustainable standards as well!

Tatsoi is the New Green

2010-02-15T15:59:00.001-08:00

Last week, I discovered an unfamiliar stowaway in my farm share box: dark little bundles of greens, clustered together on short, delicate stems. Perplexed and excited as always by the discovery of a new veggie, I dug up the Enterprise Farm e-newlsetter from the day before and discovered I was holding tatsoi, grown by Eastern Carolina Organics as part of the winter food shed. Seeing as I'd never heard of such a leaf, I decided a little research was in order.

Per Wikipedia (which I will deny using as a source if you tell any of my former writing students), tatsoi is also referred to as spinach mustard, spoon mustard, or rosette bok choy for the shape of the clusters the leaves grow in. For such a crisp and seemingly delicate green, it's apparently very hearty--it can tolerate temperatures as low as 15 F and can be harvested from under the snow! (If so, it seems this might be a good candidate for growing more locally, even through the coldest winter months.) The kitchen dicitionary at RecipeZaar likens the flavor to bok choy, but I would argue it's got a little more bite--it's grassy, lemony, and mustardy all at once, and boy does it jazz up a bowlful of red leaf lettuce! RecipeZaar also suggests tossing it into soups just before serving, which I imagine might work well with Asian flavors.

Though I haven't tried it yet, there was also a delectable-sounding recipe in the e-newsletter. You can find it below, and you can bet that I will be giving it a shot the next time these yummy rosettes come my way. Keep your eye out for them at your nearest winter farmers market--they are a lovely treat!

Chilled Sesame Ginger Tatsoi,

From the Enterprise Farm Newsletter

Ingredients

1 1/2 lbs Tatsoi, washed & dried

salt & pepper to taste

1/3 c soy sauce

2 T sugar

4 dashes Tobasco sauce

1/4 c white vinegar

2 T sesame oil

1 T ginger, minced

1/4 c sesame seeds, toasted

Directions

Bring a large pot of salted water to a roiling boil. Add the tatsoi, blanch for 1 minute, drain, and immediately plunge into ice water to stop cooking. Drain again.

In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, sesame oil, ginger, sugar, vinegar, and Tobasco. Mix well and season to taste with salt and pepper.

In a large bowl, combine the tatsoi and dressing. Mix well and refrigerate until well chilled. Garnish with sesame seeds and serve.

Love and Fortune

2010-02-14T13:58:00.001-08:00

Tonight, I am headed to Cambridge to celebrate Valentine's Day with some lovely ladies. Seeing as my hostess already has a fabulous menu planned, I wanted to bring something sweet and fun to add to the party. Since today is also the first day of the Chinese New Year, I thought it would be extra fun if this something held a message for the New Year to come. As it happens, I have a box full of fortunes on hand on the kitchen (seriously), and although I have no idea how to make an actual fortune cookie, I do know how to make a chocolate one. And with a little dab of icing for glue, each cookie becomes a messenger of fortune, holding a special sentiment for its consumer. Some are silly, some speak to matters of the heart--it's Valentine's Day after all--and others are good old-fashioned fortune cookie food for thought.

My favorite? "A contented mind is a perpetual feast." With that thought, and with this recipe, I wish you a happy Valentine's Day and an even happier New Year!

Chocolate Shortbread Refrigerator Cookies,

adapted from an old and yellowed page from the New York Times Magazine

Ingredients

1 1/2 c flour

1 1/2 c confectioners' sugar

1/2 c cocoa powder

pinch of salt

1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature, coarsely chopped

1.5 t vanilla extract

3 T ice water

Directions

Combine dry ingredients in a food processor. Pulse just to sift. Add butter and pulse until combined. Sprinkel water and vanilla on top and pulse until combined. This is a dry dough, so do not be alarmed if it's not all sticking together!

Divide the dough in half and shape each half inside waxed paper into a cylinder about 7 inches long and 1 1/2 inches in diameter. (The cookies will spread a bit when baked.) Refrigerate the dough for at least several hours or for as long as 1 day. (You can also freeze the dough for several weeks wrapped in foil.)

Preheat oven to 350. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Slice the dough into 1/4-inch-thick rounds and set them 1 inch apart on baking sheets. Bake for 12-15 minutes or until the tops are firm.

Transfer to wire racks to cool. Icing optional!

Give Love, Get Love: Local Treats for Your Sweet

2010-02-09T07:28:00.000-08:00

This Valentine's Day, The Channel Cafe has planned an inspired "Local Love" meal featuring local, organic produce from Enterprise Farms and libations from Narragansett Brewery. The four course dinner will also include locally foraged mushrooms and locally raised meat. Yes, that is a lot of local!

The dinner, which will take place on Saturday the 13th (perfect for surprising that special someone!), is just $30 per person, including beer. Quite a deal for a meal that features such special ingredients. Indeed, everything on the plate that night will have been produced with tremendous care, the very type of attentive devotion that the holiday should celebrate. It's a perfect opportunity to give a little love back to your local farmers and to celebrate love in your own life, whether with friends or a sweetheart.

My husband and I can hardly wait until Saturday, and I imagine that spots are filling up quickly. Call 617-426-0695 to reserve your place at the table!

*The lovely gift tag in the photo comes courtesy of Central Bottle, where the owner's seven-year-old nephew is officially in charge of all signage. There is a basket full of these gems by the register, perfect to go with a gift bottle for your special someone.

The "Dirty Dozen" and the "Clean 15"

2010-02-08T13:39:00.000-08:00

These days, most of us are conscious of many different issues when we wander the aisles of the supermarket. If you're reading this blog, you probably try to avoid corn syrup and processed foods, you might keep your eye out for locally-produced products, and you certainly buy organic whenever you can. But, if you're like most consumers, your budget is not limitless, so price is also a factor when deciding between the healthiest option and the next best thing. If the difference between organic and conventionally grown broccoli makes your heart skip a beat, the choice can be a tricky one.

Well, thanks to a fabulous interview with Michael Pollan on DemocracyNow, I've learned of a very helpful list put together by the Environmental Working Group. Referred to as the "Dirty Dozen," the list contains the 12 fruits and veggies that soak up the most pesticides when grown conventionally and are therefore the most important to buy organic. It also names the "Clean 15," for which the opposite is true--these items absorb much less of whatever they might be sprayed with, so buying them non-organic is less worrisome than most. With this list in hand, you can see that it's better to splurge on the organic apples and save a little on some conventional broccoli. Or if conventional strawberries are all that's available, better to wait until next week.

You can download a pocket-sized copy of the guide (or the iphone app!) by clicking here. Happy shopping, and healthy eating!

Click here to watch Pollan's full interview--it's packed full of nutritious information!

Sustainable Seafood with Slow Food Boston

2010-02-04T08:14:00.000-08:00

This Sunday, as part of their 3rd annual Winter Film Series, Slow Food Boston will be offering a screening of The End of the Line, a documentary that explores the many complex issues surrounding seafood consumption. From environmental impacts, to mercury levels, to the people whose livelihoods depend on healthy oceans, the film promises to be an informative look at a complicated web of relationships. The film will be followed by a panel discussion including Jacqueline Church, founder of Teach a Man to Fish; Heather Tausig, director of conservation at the New England Aquarium; and Niaz Dorry, and activist who works with groups like Cape Ann Fresh Catch.

If you're a die hard Saints fan (or a fan of that other team), not to worry. The screening is at 3:30--perfect timing for a dose of good-for-you food knowledge before you head home to enjoy the game...and probably some not-so-good-for-you snacks.

Click here for directions and details!

Eat Well. Do Good. Have Fun.

2010-01-29T08:00:00.000-08:00

If you're looking for a little foodie fun to warm your belly and your heart this weekend, head to Enterprise Farm for their Locally Grown Pancake Breakfast. The breakfast, which takes place tomorrow from 9:00 a.m. to noon, will feature pancakes made with locally grown and milled whole wheat flour from Four Star Farms in Northfield, Mass. And there will be plenty of locally made accopmaniments, including maple syrup from Bree-Z-Knoll Farm and bacon from Austin Brothers Valley Farm.

Although the farm's location in Whately is a bit of a drive for us Bostonians, it's a worthwhile trip this time of year. When you just can't manage another bite of pancake, you can peruse the local, organic produce on offer at The Food Shed and stock up on wintry veggies for the next few weeks, including my favorite: celery root!

All proceeds from the event will benefit the Northampton Survival Center, which provides food to low-income individuals and families in the area, an important community resource especially in this difficult economy. So, grab a few friends and make a day of it. Your farmers, your community, and your belly will thank you!

Click here for directions.

Photo by Presta, via Flickr Creative Commons

Goodbye Forever, Mickey D's

2010-01-19T12:54:00.001-08:00

I am, and forever will be, a great lover of the French fry. A lot of people say this, I know, but in my case the love runs deep. So deep, in fact, that when I appeared on a radio show during my senior year of college, I responded "the French fry" when asked to name the greatest invention of all time. (Not my brightest moment, but I was desperate not to name a domestic appliance as had the three women who answered before me, and fries were all that came to my terribly nervous mind.)

In any case, fries are one of my greatest culinary loves, and up until today this has included the very occasional excursion to McDonald's. There's just something incomparable about those long, thing, crispy fries, so reliable golden and salty no matter which franchise you choose. No, I do not feel good about these indulgences when I succumb to the urge (most often on a road trip), and I certainly feel no better after the fact. I have pretty much broken with all other McDonald's products, and have often wished to able to break the chains of the French fry bond. Today, I got my wish.

This morning, on WBUR's On Point, Michael Pollan discussed his most recent book, Food Rules, in which he attempts to present a simple set of guidelines to help consumers navigate their way toward whole, healthful food each day. It was an interesting discussion as always, but one that by now I'm fairly familiar with. Until they got to the subject of McDonald's French fries and their remarkably consistent perfection. As it turns out, those remarkably unblemished fries are made spot free at a cost that is, to me, unacceptable. McDonald's will not take potatoes that have the usual harmless brown spots, so farmers are forced to use an incredibly potent pesticide, one that happens to also be an incredibly potent neurotoxin. According to Pollan, farmers cannot go back into the field for five days after spraying for fear of brain damage. Even if something goes wrong with an irrigation line during that period, they'll let the fields go dry before setting foot into what has become a powerfully toxic zone. The possibility that a farmer (or a farmer's spouse, or children, or neighbors) could stumble into a field where food is being raised for me to eat and incur irrevocable brain damage is not one that I can ignore, particularly when I can get delicious, non-toxic, whole potato fries at any number of local restaurants, or make them myself at home.

One of the hardest arguments to overcome when trying to convince someone to avoid a processed food or product is also one of the simplest: "but it tastes good." It's the reason why people continue to eat hamburger full of ammonia, chickens that have never seen the light of day, and apples from New Zealand instead of next door. So, when I come across a piece of information like this I do my best to spread the word. It can take a lot for people to overcome the call of their own taste buds, myself included, but putting other people's lives at risk for a prettier french fry seems like a place where we should all resolve to draw the line.

Click here to listen to the full show.

Photo by Kevin Steele, via Flickr Creative Commons.

Thank You, Flavor Bible

2010-01-18T10:44:00.000-08:00

On a recent afternoon, I was perusing my new and already beloved Flavor Bible, looking for a new way to spice up some sweet potatoes. I considered the many tantalizing flavor companions offered by advising chefs, including bourbon, coriander, nutmeg, and orange zest. Sadly, though, nothing was really tickling my creative fancy.

Until, that is, I noticed a little section at the end of the entry labeled Flavor Affinities. At first I was confused by said section, as the entire list that comes before could be labeled as such. But, what appears to set this section apart is that it presents combinations of three flavors or more. Sweet potatoes + apples + sage (= yum.) Sweet potatoes + bacon + onions + rosemary (= yum.) And near the end of the list: sweet potatoes + kale + prosciutto (= so very yum and a perfect way to utilize a fresh bunch of kale in the fridge.) After noting that both kale and sweet potatoes pair well with thyme, I gathered my ingredients and went to work. Here's what I came up with, along with a few ideas for modifications the next time around.

Savory Kale & Sweet Potato Pasta (Gnocchi, if you've got 'em!)

Potatoes:

Here, I stuck with a slightly modified version of my still favorite sweet potato preparation. Preheat the oven to 400. Mince 3-4 large garlic cloves and combine in a large bowl with 1/3 c fresh thyme leaves and 1/2 t red pepper flakes. Add in 3 medium sweet potatoes, chopped into comfortably bite-sized pieces. Toss with enough olive oil to coat (about 3 T), add a pinch of salt and pepper, and distribute onto a foil-lined baking sheet in an even layer. Bake for around 40 minutes, till potatoes are tender.

Meanwhile...

Prosciutto:

Slice 4-5 pieces of prosciutto into 1/4 inch strips. Separate and sautee until crisp, adding a drizzle of olive oil to the pan if needed. (Do not use a non-stick pan for this--you want all of the brown deliciousness for later.) When prosciutto is crisp, remove from pan and spread on a paper towel-lined plate, leaving any remaining fat in the pan.

Kale:

In the same pan, sautee one medium yellow onion, sliced thin. Add about 1.5 c of chicken stock to deglaze the pan. Add the kale (chopped), another generous helping of fresh thyme, salt and pepper, and cover. Simmer for 30-40 minutes. If needed, add more stock as it cooks--you want some liquid in the pan in the end to toss together with the pasta.

Pasta:

What I wanted to have with this dish were gnocchi, those pillowy little bundles of delight. But, as I didn't have access to good pre-made ones and was scared away from attempting some from scratch by a doomsaying husband, I ended up with whole wheat spaghetti. This was all right, but both the shape and the flavor seemed out of balance with the star ingredients--a bite with just kale, sweet potato, and prosciutto was divine, and the pasta seemed to get in the way of that rather than enhance it. Although I haven't tried it, I imagine that gnocchi would be a much better companion. I have also since learned that gnocchi can indeed be made at home without inviting certain disaster, and that The Silver Spoon cookbook has a lovely recipe. Next time around I'd like to attempt said recipe. At the very least, I would use a shorter pasta, probably penne.

The Final Product:

When your pasta, potatoes, and kale are done, toss the pasta and kale (with remaining broth) together in a large bowl. Fold in sweet potatoes. Serve and top with a generous sprinkle of prosciutto. As often as possible, combine all three of the delightfully affinitied flavors in one bite. Enjoy!

A Berry of a Different Sort

2010-01-13T10:13:00.000-08:00

One of the exciting things about our new winter farm share with Enterprise Farm has been that, in addition to the lovely fruits and veggies each week, we've also received the occasional bag of wheat berries. These lovely little berries come to us via Four Star Farms in Northfield, MA, and are particularly exciting to me as I have yet to find many options for truly local grains. They are also exciting because I have never in my life cooked with a wheat berry! Word on the street is they add a bit of crunchy texture for a hearty whole grain bread (here's hoping my husband will break out his KitchenAid sometime soon) and recipes for wheat berry salad abound (throw in your favorite mix of cukes, feta, olives, etc.). But, when I finally had some time to get inventive the other night, I opted for my usual winter standby: soup. The wheat berries add a wonderful texture with their springy bite, and combined with beans you've got a complete protein. Here's what I put together--it's a simple, easy recipe that can be adapted to suit whatever your pantry has on offer.

Wheat Berry and Winter Vegetable Soup

Ingredients:

12 c low-sodium vegetable or chicken stock*

4 cloves garlic, diced

1 t dried thyme

1 t red pepper flakes

2 bay leaves

2-3 good splashes of olive oil

1 c wheat berries

1 helping heaping of whatever winter veggies you have on hand--I used parsnip, carrot, kale, squash, and onion

1 can kidney beans, rinsed (someday, I will learn to cook with dried)

1 can canellini beans, rinsed

Directions:

In a large stock pot, bring the stock, garlic, thyme, red pepper flakes, bay leaves, and olive oil to a boil. Add the wheat berries and reduce to a simmer. Cook for 1 hour.

While the wheat berries cook, chop veggies. Add them to the soup when the hour is up and simmer for another 20-30 minutes, until veggies are tender.

Add the beans and simmer for another 5 minutes.

Enjoy!

*you may notice that many soup recipes call for 10 cups of stock--I like to use 12, as this often results in a big bowl's worth of leftover broth, perfect for freezing. When you have the sniffles, or just the winter blahs, nothing beats a rich, hot broth with a piece of crusty bread!

Warm, steamy, yummy.

Restaurant Week, Dorchester Style

2010-01-12T08:58:00.000-08:00

For all you Bostonians who are eagerly awaiting the arrival of Restaurant Week in the spring, I have happy news--you don't have to wait until March! For the first time this year, eight restaurants in Dorchester and Milton will be participating in a neighborhood Restaurant Week, with each location offering a special three-course dinner for $30.10 in addition to their regular fare. The event, which runs from January 17th through the 31st (excluding Fri/Sat nights) is a great way to do some local eating. Not only will you be supporting small businesses in your area, but many of them--including Chris Douglass' Ashmont Grill and Tavolo--make an effort to buy produce and specialty items from local farms and producers. In other words, it's a win-win-win.

For those of you who don't often venture out in the Dorchester area, this is a perfect opportunity to check out a growing neighborhood--all of these restaurants offer free parking, and most are a stone's throw away from the Red Line. Click on the restaurants below to see their full menus and contact information--reservations recommended!

Photo courtesy of Adam Pieniazek on Flickr Creative Commons.

A Wintertime Treat: Growing in the Concrete Jungle

2010-01-10T13:30:00.000-08:00

As we Bostonians brace ourselves for the longest, coldest months of the year, Slow Food Boston is offering a welcome bright spot with the beginning of their Winter Film Series next Sunday: a screening of HomeGrown, the story of a family who managed to grow 6,000 pounds of produce on less than 1/4 acre of land in downtown Pasadena. As always, the movie will be followed by a panel discussion to expand on the ideas presented in the film, including Lisa Gross, founder of the Urban Homesteaders' League, and Jess Liborio of The Food Project. For just a $5 donation to Slow Food you can reserve your spot, which I would say is quite the bargain--after all, when was the last time you got to see a movie for less than $10? Much less donate your money to a great organization and participate in a stimulating conversation? Click here to reserve your tickets for the 3:30 showing. Hope to see you there!

Other upcoming film topics include the complexities of seafood consumption and the fight for healthy school lunches. Click here to see the full series schedule.

On Wearing Perfume at the Table

2010-01-06T08:33:00.000-08:00

We have all been there. Enjoying a tasty meal and soaking up the atmosphere at our favorite restaurant, when in walks a veritable explosion of perfume. (Or sometimes cologne, but I have found that women tend to be the more common offenders in this department.) Suddenly, rather than tasting your remarkably delightful chick pea fries, you are tasting Chanel. Instead of the fine cocktail of Campari and gin you've been sipping, you're sipping on Poison...in every sense of the word.

This was precisely what happened to a friend and I who were dining at the lovely Garden at the Cellar in Cambridge last night. Just as our food arrived, so did a large party of people, at least one of whom was responsible for contaminating the entire air space of the restaurant. As always, these odiferous diners struck me as an unwelcome and unfair offense--why should I have to smell the people next to me when I'm trying to enjoy a bowl of Pumpkin soup with crispy pork rillette and spiced yogurt (divine, in spite of the smelly distraction)? It will fade into the background, my friend and I told ourselves, hoping that after a time we would cease to notice the cloud of overpowering and acrid aromas. But it never did. My garlic spinach--adorably presented in a squat little canning jar--and my Negroni were tainted by the stench until the very last mouthful.

When it comes to this blog, I usually try to leave my cranky pants at home, but last night put me over the edge. Perfume has a place--even I have a couple that I like to spritz on (lightly) once in a while--but it most certainly does not belong in a restaurant. If you want to douse yourself before cooking for that special someone at home, go nuts. But when you're headed out to a public space where people have gathered for the specific purpose of enjoying yummy food, ditch the scintillating scents. And, if you are not a perfumer, encourage any offending friends to do the same. The food, the drink, and your fellow diners will all be better off!

How Does Your Garden Grow?

2010-01-02T08:27:00.000-08:00

"A garden is the most direct way to recapture the issue of health and to make it a private instead of a governmental responsibility." --Wendell Berry, "The Reactor and the Garden," The Gift of Good Land: Further Essays Cultural and Agricultural.

January is not a typical time of year for gardening. Not in Boston, certainly. Not in the sense that we typically think of: digging our fingers under the soil to plant, to weed, or to harvest. This time of year, we are buried in snow and the ground is frozen hard. But, this does not mean that the January gardner sits entirely idle. On the contrary, the deep winter season offers time for contemplation. What will be planted in the growing season to come? What lessons can be learned from the last? Even I, with only my tiny herb planter to ponder, find myself considering what new varieties I might try out next year, what more I would plant if I had the luxury of a yard to do it in.

January also brings in a new year, prompting many of us to reflect on how we'd like to make our lives better over the next twelve months, how to grow ourselves as individuals and work together to solve larger social problems. After a few long weeks of holiday overindulgences--thankfully tempered by the start of a new farm share--I find myself thinking a great deal about food and the myriad ways that our choices in that realm stand to effect not only our personal health, but that of the planet as a whole. Following Thursday's New York Times article about the ubiquitous presence of ammonia processed beef in this country's hamburger, and a recent re-viewing of the incredible documentary, Food Inc. (if you haven't seen it yet, you really must) Berry's words about recapturing the responsibility for our health hold particular resonance. The government agencies responsible for fostering and protecting our food system cannot currently be relied upon to do so given the revolving door between corporate agriculture and positions of power at the USDA and FDA. And, while this system needs to be held accountable and fighting to change it is an essential endeavor, it can feel like chipping away at an iceberg.

A garden, on the other hand, provides much speedier results, and a much more satisfying path to getting there. The means are as satisfying as the end, and the gardener has ownership in the entire process. Yes, there are the perils of pests and weather to contend with in order to achieve success, but these are much more pleasant adversaries to consider than profit-hungry CEOs whose power seems to have no end. As stated at the end of Food Inc., planting a garden, even a small one, is the most direct way to regain control of your food supply, and thereby your health, in a system that has gone so terribly awry. It is also far more delicious than letter writing.

So, for those of you inclined to spend these snowy days indoors, pondering your plantings for the first or the fortieth time, I offer a few reading suggestions to help you percolate on the possibilities until the spring thaw.

First, there's Karel Capek's The Gardener's Year, part of the Modern Library Gardening Series, edited by none other than Michael Pollan. Originally written in Czech in 1929, Capek's observations are whimsical and insightful, reminding us of the wonders of growing while poking light fun at the quirks and obsessions of the average gardener. The book's pages are also adorned by a charming collection line drawings created by Capek's brother. As Pollan writes in his series introduction, "there's plenty of how-to here, but the emphasis is more along the lines of how-to-think-about-it than how-to-do-it." Just right for the time of year when you're better off under a blanket than out in a field. The series has become home to many other forgotten books, including enticing titles such as In the Land of the Blue Poppies, Old Herbaceous, and The Gardener's Bed-Book: Short and Long Pieces to Be Read in Bed By Those Who Love Green Growing Things. You can peruse and purchase any of them here.

For a more contemporary but still varied list of gardening-related books, click here to see the year's 10 best gardening books, according to the Boston.com Gardening blog.

To see you through until you get your hands on one of these, or until you can get your hands good and dirty, here are a few encouraging winter words by Capek, from a chapter entitled "The Gardener's February":

"But do you know what? The snowdrops are in flower; and hamamelis with yellow stars is in flower, and hellebore has fat buds; and when you look properly (but you must hold your breath) you will find buds and sprouts on almost everything; with a thousand tiny pulses life rises from the soil. Now we gardeners will stick to it; already we are rushing into sap."

"To Save the Planet, Save the Seas"

2009-12-27T04:26:00.001-08:00

From this morning's New York Times: more reason to carefully consider and fully understand your seafood choices. Click here to read the full article.

A Holiday Bounty

2009-12-23T05:20:00.000-08:00

This year, like many people, my husband and I decided to scale back our gift-giving budget in accordance with tough economic times. As a result we had to get a little creative, and said husband put together a brilliant gift that I will be able to enjoy for many years to come.

First, a mortar and pestle, something I've desperately wanted since savoring the sauces my roommates would whip up with one in Spain. Second, an incredible array of spices and flavorings from Christina's Spice & Specialty Foods in Inman Square, including everything from dill seed, to star anise, to sumac. (What is sumac? Neither of us have any idea, which is part of the fun!) The final piece of this gift puzzle is perhaps the most brilliant of all: The Flavor Bible. The book, which bills itself as "The Essential Guide to Culinary Creativity, Based on the Wisdom of America's Most Imaginative Chefs," is an incredible kitchen reference, perfect for those who love to cook (and eat) but don't have the patience for long, elaborate recipes and perfect measurements (that would be me). Essentially, its a giant index where you can look up whatever ingredient you have on hand, from cheeses, to vegetables, to salts. Under each entry, you can learn a little bit about your ingredient, as well as peruse an extensive list of complimentary ingredients, compiled according to chefs' recommendations. So, next time I'm looking to try something new with my winter parsnips or a precious celeriac (or my new spice collection!) I have a wealth of improvisational possibilities right there at my fingertips, drawing from a deep well of culinary experience.

I have yet to sit down and absorb the full wonder of this book--I had to run off to New Jersey just hours after receiving it--but I cannot wait to peruse it when I get back home. The second introductory chapter, in particular, holds great promise: "Great cooking = Maximizing Flavor + Pleasure by Tapping Body + Heart + Mind + Spirit: Communicating via the Language of Food." This, after all, is what truly great cooking is all about. It is also a wonderful reminder of the greatest treasure of the holidays: gathering around the table with friends and family to share a meal that's been cooked together.

Wishing you all a wonderful holiday season, and a happy and lucky New Year!

A Farm Share and a Food Shed

2009-12-13T09:04:00.000-08:00

For us New Englanders, along with many residents of other cold climates, the winter months can present some serious challenges when it comes to eating local. More winter farm shares and farmers markets have begun cropping up in recent years, which is wonderful, but many are new and tentative ventures without much volume. And, while we all have the option of preserving the harvest at home or creating our own root cellar, most of us urban dwellers have neither the space nor the time to set aside a winter's worth of food, much as we might like to.

This year, as the end of our incredible farm share with Red Fire Farm drew closer, my husband and I found ourselves chanting the same refrain over our veggie-filled dinners: how will we survive long months without this bounty of fresh, local, organic produce? After just one season of the CSA, the thought of limp, supermarket zucchini shipped in from Mexico was too depressing to contemplate. But, we also didn't want to spend the next five months without putting a single green item on our plate.

Serendipitously, I got to talking with a friend about her farm share with Enterprise Farm in Whately, Massachusetts, which goes year round and allows a buy in for just the winter/spring share. Unlike most CSAs, which come from one nearby farm, Enterprise is part of a co-op of organic, sustainable farms that operate under the umbrella of an East Coast "Food Shed." So, while it's not as local as an all-Massachusetts share, participation still supports small farmers and preserves farmland, within a distribution system that is much more sustainable than most of the options available at the supermarket. The shares are as local as possible (last week's box was about 50% Massachusetts grown), and there is a sense of reason and moderation in what's included. Four organic, Florida-grown Clementines feels like a wonderful winter treat, and one that leaves a much smaller carbon footprint than an entire crate shipped across the Atlantic from Spain.

I will admit that I still feel some uneasiness at this approach. There's something disconcerting about opening up your December farm share box to find a pint of perfectly ripe grape tomatoes. But, I also believe that the idea of a larger food shed is important for a host of reasons, including food security, conservation, and, quite simply, quality of life. Winter in New England is hard enough without having to make the choice between no fresh veggies or produce whose provenance is as unfamiliar as it is distant. Instead, thanks to Enterprise, we can support family farms up and down the East Coast, all while preserving safe, sustainable, nourishing agricultural practices along the way.

You can too, if you're interested--the farm still has shares available, and they will prorate the price for any shares you've missed. Click here for more information. Click here to watch Dave Jackson talk about the philosophy and practice of operating a year-round CSA in New England.

A Holiday Helper

2009-12-06T08:37:00.000-08:00

We've all been there: you have a holiday party to go to in a few hours and, amid all the excitement, you suddenly realize you've failed to think of a festive treat to bring along. Sure, you can grab a bottle of wine on the way, but you'd also like to have a little homemade something that says thanks for the invite in a more personal fashion. Yesterday, craving a sweet snack on a chilly, quiet Saturday, I discovered the perfect solution in my ATK Family Cookbook: "Emergency Chocolate Cake." Named for the ease and speed with which it can be prepared, this cake seemed an ideal fit for my urgent but lazy need for sweet. The editors note that they tried dozens of recipes for a cake that would prove both fast and delicious, but were dissatisfied until one staffer brought in his grandmother's recipe, which proved to be simple, quick, and tasty. There is one catch, however...the secret ingredient? There's no way to sugarcoat it, so I'll just put it out there: mayonnaise. Yes, you can take a moment to make a terrible face. I am totally with you. It sounds gross. When I read it, I nearly closed the cookbook in consternation. But, my faith in the folks at ATK (and perhaps my desperation for cake in any form) propelled me forward.

I followed the instructions nearly to a T, swallowing my doubt as I blended the mayonnaise in with the short list of ingredients. A foodie friend who knew what I was up to expressed her concern on twitter: "mayo?? i am a little bit worried. but let me know how it goes." I was worried as well, but I threw it in the oven and headed back to the couch to wait.

Result? Perfection! It sounds impossible, I know but this cake is moist, rich, chocolatey, and fluffy--you would never guess how easy it is, or that it has a sandwich condiment as a main ingredient. As I sampled one tiny taste after another, I found myself thinking, "What is mayonnaise, after all, but eggs and oil? Essential ingredients in any good cake!" With each passing bite, the idea of mayo in a cake became a little less outrageous. And with a quick dusting of powdered sugar, you've got a gorgeous, festive party offering that can be whipped up in a pinch.

You may still be skeptical, which I completely understand. Try it out at home first, or make one to bring into the office. I guarantee you it will not last long!

Emergency Chocolate Cake, from America's Test Kitchen Family Cookbook

Ingredients:

2 c all-purpose flour

1 1/4 c sugar

3/4 t baking soda

3/4 c cocoa powder

1 1/4 c water

1 c mayonnaise

1 T vanilla extract (I used 1.5 T)

Confectioners' sugar for serving

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350. Lightly coat an 8-inch square pan with butter. (I used an 8 inch round pan, the smaller area of which resulted in a cake that puffed up and got crusty like a brownie on the top--I highly recommend it.)

Whisk the flour, sugar, and baking soda together in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk the cocoa and water together until smooth. Whisk in the mayonnaise and vanilla. Stir the mayonnaise mixture into the flour mixture until combined.

Pour batter into the pan and smooth the top. Bake until a skewer inserted into the center of the cake comes out with a few crumbs attached, 35-40 minutes. (It took closer to an hour for me, probably because of the different pan.)

Let cool, turn out onto a serving plate, and dust with confectioners' sugar.

Unveil it to oohs and aahs at your next holiday party, and when they ask how you made it? Give a smile and a wink, and tell them that's your little secret.

Sweet Potatoes go Savory

2009-12-04T14:13:00.000-08:00

For most of my life, I thought I didn't like sweet potatoes. The sugar, the marshmallow...none of it seemed right on a dinner plate, nor did it float my boat for dessert. Then, last year, my husband roasted a couple in the oven and we ate them plain and simple, with just a touch of butter. It was a revelation. We could not believe the rich, deep flavors, and the color was just as gorgeous. It felt like the discovery an entirely new species, something no one had seen before. Of course, I now know that there are plenty of people out there preparing sweet potatoes in plenty of delectable ways. To me, this veggie remains exciting and new, and at this time of year I thrill each week when they appear in my farm share, a very bright note in the sometimes dismal November Rain (cue dramatic piano music).

In hopes of sharing the joy, here is a savory recipe modified slightly from one I found on Epicurious. Simple, seasonal, and impossibly delicious. Bon appetit!

Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Garlic and Thyme

Ingredients:

4 medium sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1 inch rounds. (You can halve these for smaller pieces if you prefer--just lower the oven temp a touch.)

3 T olive oil

4 large garlic cloves, minced

1/3 c fresh thyme leaves, or a very generous sprinkling of dried

1/2 t kosher salt

1/4 t black pepper

1/2 t red pepper flakes

Directions:

Preheat oven to 400. Toss all ingredients together in a large mixing bowl. Arrange the potato slices in a single layer on/in a baking sheet/dish. Place on top rack of oven and roast until tender and slightly browned, about 40 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature, or even cold on a fresh green salad. They are also delicious eaten one by one...throughout the day...from a pretty little dish in the refrigerator.

"Back to the Land": Some Beautiful Food for Thought

2009-11-27T13:06:00.001-08:00

While you are hopefully still full up with the holiday bounty of food, friends, and family, I invite you to enjoy this lovely photo essay from Maira Kalman. Full of personal, artistic musings on food, democracy, and how we take care of ourselves and each other. Perfect fodder for some quiet, post-Thanksgiving contemplation.

A Labor of Love

2009-11-26T07:25:00.000-08:00

To me, boiled onions are my mother's signature holiday dish. They compliment all of the many fabulous flavors, from stuffing to potatoes to turkey, and no Thanksgiving would be complete without them. This year, I'll have to wait until Christmas to share this treat with my mom, but today I peeled a few dozen onions for dinner at my in-laws. Many tears were shed in spite of the candle, but every one was worth it to get that priceless taste of home.

Happy Thanksgiving!

A chat and talk and cook kind of thing.

2009-11-23T14:17:00.000-08:00

"A chat and talk and cook kind of thing." This is how Ranveer Brar, corporate chef for One World Cuisine, introduced the Tuesday night cooking class at Mantra's Naan Bar. I had arrived excited for the class but flustered after a long day at work, and his relaxed description sounded like exactly what the doctor ordered. What could be better than that, after all?

The class, which Mantra runs every Tuesday from 5:30-6:30, is designed to "demystify the tandoor," says Chef Brar. Indeed, within minutes of arriving, I had learned that the cylindrical tandoor oven, which originated in Turkey, is fired at the bottom and is most often made of clay bound around coils of rope. In India, where bread is also sometimes grill-baked at home, there are often community tandoors, used jointly by a group of families. And, if you have neither a private nor a community tandoor, as is true for most of us in the States, Brar recommends using any piece of non-glazed cookware for baking, such as a terra cotta dish or a pizza stone. Heat the oven to 450 for breads and 400 for meats, and you'll have at least some approximation of the tandoor.

The first lesson of the day was how to make naan dough. Here in the U.S., where the flour is harder and has more gluten than in India, the ideal dough is made with 30% milk. For our batch, Brar used 1 egg, 2 pounds of self-rising flour, milk, and a pinch each of salt and sugar. He also added just a teaspoon of oil toward the end. He cautioned against over-kneading and then put the dough away to rest for 2 hours, swapping it out for an already rested batch.

The dough, once shaped into naan-sized portions, is cooked on the side of the ovens, where it connects with a slap. Once ready, it's removed with two metal skewers and set aside for serving. While Brar used plain dough for our naans, it's also common to add mint or toasted caraway to the dough itself--yum.

Our naan samples were served with three chutneys: mint & cashew, tamarind, and tomato and onion seed. All three were delicious, but the mint & cashew seemed to be the crowd favorite. In addition to the basic naan, we were treated to tastings of a green chili and mozzarella stuffed naan, as well as one stuffed with date and coconut. Both combinations were surprising to me (I usually just go straight for the garlic naan) and both were delicious. Dates, Chef Brar told us, were historically used in royal bread, and it wasn't hard to see why. Their sweet flavor and rich texture made for a unique and decadent dish.

Next it was onto the meats, which came with a brief lesson in spices. The Ayurvedic style used in India is a holistic approach devoted to achieving harmony in the body. "Your body type dictates what you're going to eat," Chef Brar explained. The tandoor spices that he used for our kebabs included ground red chili, celery seed, cilantro, toasted coriander, fried onion, and garam masala. There are 12 altogether, six heating and six cooling for balance. Given this holistic philosophy, I was happy to hear that Chef Brar and One World Cuisine are also working to balance their menu from a sustainability perspective by purchasing produce from local markets in the summer and fall, as well asVermont chevre.

First up was a seekh kebab--seekh is the word for skewer--which is typically made with beef or lamb depending on the religion on the region in India. This recipe was a mixture of ground lamb, ginger, and garlic, molded in a careful cylinder around the skewer before going into the oven. According to Chef Brar, the ideal kebab should consist of 10% flavoring and spices, 90% meat. Next, we enjoyed a Roti kebab, which held larger chunks of meat, more similar to the "kebabs" I make at home on the grill. This style of kebab is marinated in yogurt, which acts as a great tenderizer for the meat. Chef Brar's recipe includes 1 pound yogurt, 2 ounces each of ginger and garlic paste, 2 ounces of chick pea flour, and salt and pepper. We also got to try a chipotle chicken tikka, which was tender and packed with flavor.

In addition to the cooking classes, the Naan Bar has a separate menu full of delicious-sounding taste treats. There are appetizers like Mustard-Seed Lamb Chops and Chili Mussels, as well as endless varieties of naan, ranging from smoked salmon to PB&J! For just $12 you can choose your three favorite and make it a trio. While our group was fairly full after so many generous samples, we agreed that we would come back another night to enjoy the many delights on offer.

All told, the cooking class is a lovely way to unwind after a long day at work. For just $20, you get a wealth of information, all those yummy samples, and a cocktail to boot. To reserve your spot, visit Mantra's website or give them a call at (617) 542-8111. Happy eating!

Time for Lunch: Put a Pen (or Crayon) to Paper!

2009-11-18T06:56:00.000-08:00

Following a successful round of Labor Day "Eat-Ins," Slow Food USA is moving forward with their Time for Lunch campaign to get fresh, nutritious food into school lunches. They are asking supporters to spread the word to friends, sign the petition (if you haven't already), and write letters to your legislators over the course of the next few months. Slow Food is also encouraging kids to get involved in this last step--after all, they are the ones most impacted by the decisions made in Washington. The bill won't be addressed by Congress until next spring, so there's lots of time left to make an impact!

Click here for more information on how you can get involved. You'll find everything you need, including letter templates and links to find your local legislator's address. Let's fill their mailboxes to overflowing, in hopes that they'll fill children's lunch trays with whole, unprocessed foods.

Chicken Soup With Rice: Some Global Variations on a Classic

2009-11-16T12:37:00.000-08:00

Earlier today, I found myself contemplating a Twitter distress call to my fellow foodies: Still sick! In need of home remedies! Send recipes! Over the past few days I've had many suggestions for boozy cures, but while a little hot toddy never hurt anyone, what I really wanted was someone's best recipe for chicken soup, or an equally healing concoction.

Before I could issue my call for help, I received an e-mail from a friend who, having no idea I've been under the weather, sent me this fabulous link to chicken soup recipes from around the world. She is a mind reader!

I'm not sure what to make first...the Chicken Soup with Provencal Herbs or Korean Chicken Soup...so many yummy remedies to try!

The Season of the Sprout

2009-11-14T07:38:00.001-08:00

As a child, Brussels sprouts and I did not get along. I wasn't a particularly picky eater, but just the smell of those little green spheres provoked a rather powerful reaction in me. "I can't!" I remember telling my mother, as I tried to swallow through my gag reflex. My mother, not the vegetable tyrant type, would only ask me to have two or three bites, but nothing had ever been so difficult. Those sprouts might as well have been poison, for the way my body reacted.

So, it is no great surprise that, even through 15 years of vegetarianism, I've gone most of my adult life without touching a Brussels sprout. I'm just not into self-torture. But then, one night a couple of years ago, a friend prepared them for dinner, sauteed with a little butter and olive oil and a touch of salt and pepper. What a revelation it was! I could not believe what I'd been missing. I began eating Brussels sprouts whenever I could get them--at restaurants mostly--but I was still too scared to prepare them on my own, worried that some magic touch was required to make those little cabbages taste so sweet.

Enter the farm share, which last week included a gorgeous stalk full of beautiful little sprouts. As I marveled at their rather Seussian appearance, I found myself slightly panic-stricken, wanting to pick up the phone and call the friend who had first cooked them for me. How did you do it?? Instead, I took a deep breath and the same approach that I've taken with all of my farm share firsts. I did a little research on my own, looking for the simplest, easiest method of preparation--I figured that would minimize my chances of screwing things up. Thanks to Ina Garten, of Barefoot Contessa fame, I found a recipe that's as basic as it gets:

*Preheat the oven to 400 degrees

*After cutting off any tough ends and removing any wilted leaves, toss the Brussels sprouts with olive oil, salt, and pepper.

*Roast for 35 to 40 minutes, until crisp on the outside and tender on the inside.

And just like that, I had a plate full of delicious, golden brown sprouts, crispy and tender as promised. Fast, easy, and the perfect way to showcase the beautiful flavors of sprouts fresh off the stalk.

Of course, if you're looking for something a little richer, a little heartier on a chilly November evening, I recommend this recipe from the folks at America's Test Kitchen. My husband has made it a couple of times, and it us fabulously, decadently yum. Enjoy!

Skillet-Braised Brussels Sprouts with Bacon and Shallots

Ingredients:

4 oz. bacon (4 slices), chopped fine

2 shallots, sliced thin

1 lb. Brussels sprouts, stem ends trimmed, discolored leaves removed, and halved through the stem

1/2 c water

1 t unsalted butter

1 T red wine vinegar

salt and pepper

Directions:

Cook the bacon and shallots together in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat until the bacon is crisp and the shallots are browned, about ten minutes. Transfer the mixture to a paper-towel-lined plate to drain.

Add the Brussels sprouts, water, and 1/2 teaspoon salt to the skillet and increase the heat to medium-high. Cover and simmer until the Brussels sprouts are bright green, about 9 minutes. Uncover the pan and cook until the liquid has evaporated and the sprouts are tender, about 5 minutes longer.

Off the heat, stir in the bacon mixture, butter*, and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper to taste before serving.

*to me the butter is optional...Paula Deen would definitely do it, but it's a bit too rich for me!

An Ecofoodie Honeymoon

2009-11-12T13:59:00.000-08:00

Ecofoodie is home sick today. And although the electric blanket, a junky movie, and a coke float (I'm allowed--I'm sick!) have provided some comfort on this dreary Boston day, I find myself longing for lazy, sun-soaked, feta-filled days in the Aegean. So, here you have it: a little taste of Greece...enjoy!

We began our first meal in Athens with a Greek salad, some savory leek fritters, and a little house white wine. The best thing about Greek salads in Greece is that there's very little lettuce, if any--instead you get a plate full of just the goodies. This was particularly exciting for my husband because the tomatoes in Greece are incredible. Mostly I stuck to the cucumbers, but I allowed myself a tomato or two when they looked particularly red and juicy.

The husband's preferred Greek beer? Alpha. Sadly, once we got to Santorini it was very hard to find. "Mythos, only Mythos," was the all too common refrain from the waiters when he tried to order this new favorite.

The start of lunch in Athens. Tzatziki, olives, and some fresh calamari...triple yum.

My sampler plate: more tzatziki, spanakopita, stuffed grape leaves, feta, grilled veggies, and some giant white beans that were delicious. This was heaven on a platter for a mostly vegetarian like myself. We need more variety plate entrees like this in the states!

My first "cold coffee." Made from instant Nescafe and whipped into an unreasonably creamy, refreshing concoction. Not exactly fresh, but definitely a local specialty. People drink these constantly in Greece, and I was no exception.

Our second night in Athens we ate at this interesting, out-of-the-way spot where they brought you a giant platter with 17 dishes, and you picked the five you wanted...right of the tray...just like that. A little high pressure but very fun!

Our picks: house made sausage, spinach, eggplant, tzatziki, and stuffed grape leaves. And some house made wine of course.

After a couple days in Athens, Santorini made for a very welcome change. And also some welcome champagne on our patio, thanks to our lovely hosts at the Mill Houses Hotel, also known as heaven on Earth.

Each night we got to choose what we wanted for breakfast the next morning. Most days it looked like this, with the giant bowls of Greek yogurt and honey being the stars of the show.

A snack after the 3 mile hike to Ia. This Greek salad had some extra flair in the form of capers. A fabulous idea.

A little beer to start the sunset. We poured into glasses. We felt fancy.

Dinner on our patio, courtesy of the local market. Black and green olives, white grapes, yellow peppers, and some local salami and cheeses. Oh so very yum. And yes, the sunset does make it taste better.

Wine tasting at Santo Wines. As we learned, Santorini is covered in vineyards and known for its white wines. The volcanic soil makes them crisp and bright, which is just what I like. It is also known for vin santo, a rich dessert wine that tastes wonderfully of honey without being overpoweringly sweet.

We didn't really want to leave the winery. Ever.

But thankfully we did, or we would never have enjoyed this fabulous grilled calamari in Kamari. Yes, that rhymes. Maybe one day we'll write a poem about it. Then again, I think the pictures speak for themselves.

From the Combat Zone to the Farm

2009-11-11T09:59:00.000-08:00

On today's Veteran's Day-themed episode of Here and Now on NPR, the last few minutes were devoted to a story from Matthew McCue, an Iraq veteran who returned home from combat and found himself drawn to farming. In Iraq, where he resigned himself to death as a way to get through the stress of combat, he noticed the importance of farmers markets during wartime--as he saw it, they were holding things together amidst the chaos of war, and in a way were "more powerful than any other piece of infrastructure," even the police. After returning home, with the help of the Farmer-Veteran Coalition he found his way to French Garden Farm in California, where he now helps to grow everything from potatoes to rainbow carrots, his favorite veggie. "Farming is everything," he says, noting that, like soldiering, it requires your attention 24 hours a day. Now, McCue wants to go back Iraq, but as a farmer rather than a soldier. "I can do the world a lot more good with a shovel than I can with an M-16," he says.

To hear McCue tell his story, visit the show's website. And to learn more about the Farmer-Veteran Coalition, which helps returning vets find training, employment, and places to heal, click here.

Thanks to all of the men and women who serve and have served in our armed forces, and to groups like FVC that help them to find the resources they need here at home. Here's hoping that one day we can all trade our M-16s for shovels.

Gone Country: A Night of Fresh Food and Fine Dining at the Herb Lyceum

2009-11-10T11:55:00.000-08:00

Living in a city like Boston, opportunities for culinary adventure abound. These days, there are excellent chefs working their magic in just about every neighborhood of town, and representing just about every type of cuisine. Nonetheless, it's possible to sometimes find yourself in a bit of a restaurant rut. You've been to your favorite spot a few times too often, you don't feel like gambling on the fancy claims of the newest hot spot, you need a new spin on the flavors of the season...what's a foodie to do?

Head to the country, I say. More specifically, head to Groton, Massachusetts, where chef Paul Callahan (formerly of L'Espalier, Sel de la Terre, and The Butcher Shop) is working his own brand of magic at The Herb Lyceum at Gilson's. Chef Callahan, who has been at the restaurant for two months now, is clearly in his element, appearing after each course to explain the dish and chat with diners. "No one's a ticket any more," he said when asked what's different about working in this unusual setting. And, in addition to this new relationship with his guests, he also has a new relationship to the producers and vendors he works with. "I can't tell you the last time I called to place an order," he says. Instead, local farmers and vendors call him when they have a bumper supply of squash or short ribs, and he willingly takes it off their hands, working to design a menu around what's fresh, seasonal and local. Being slightly off the beaten path affords Callahan that luxury, and those who find their way to Groton are in for an inspired night of dining that is as sustainable as it is delicious.

The barn, built around 1900 and restored in the 1990s using original materials, provides a lovely setting for a dinner--as you enter through the door, warmly welcomed by David Gilson himself, you're transported to a place that seems much further than an hour from the city. The charming decor is filled with home grown plants and herbs, as well as old time tools like the mortar and pestle pictured here. And, the warm welcome continues inside with Kathy Gilson making sure everyone can get comfortable and get a glass of wine if they've brought it (the restaurant is BYOW). The combined effect is as though you've stepped into someone's old time dining room, one that's cozy, intimate, and inviting.

Although for most of the night it seemed wrong to disrupt the atmosphere with flash photography, I did manage to sneak one picture with a flash early on in the evening. You can see the lovely table settings here, as well as a couple bottles of wine brought by other diners. The communal tables are a key feature of the Herb Lyceum. As Chef Callahan said, "it's like going to a dinner party." It's a lovely sentiment, and we did enjoy the company of some very nice neighbors that night. However, we also had a couple of neighbors that were not so nice. In fact, they were very not nice, but I will leave the (overly drunken) details to your imagination--I like to think that they were far from the norm. Suffice it to say that if you are one who doesn't like to take a gamble on making new friends over dinner, you might consider bringing a big enough group to take up one of the smaller tables (6 being the smallest) or at least insulate yourself from the possibility of unpleasantness. That way you can put most of your attention exactly where it belongs: on the wonderful food.

Although my flashless food pictures were all sadly dark, I had to include at least one. This was our main course, an Herbs de Provence Braised Short Rib Wellington, with local, grass fed beef from Springdell Farm nearby. The beef, wrapped in homemade puff pastry, was tender and juicy, and very well accompanied by the spinach, mushrooms, and foie gras that were bundled up with it. Along side were a smoked potato fondue (brilliant!) and a sauce Perigueux, as well as a little tower of squashes, including Hubbard, Acorn, and Delicata. We also enjoyed an incredible Roasted Chestnut Bisque that evening, with a cranberry compote made with port wine and rosemary. The tart, woodsy flavor of the berries made an unexpectedly delicious pairing with the rich, creamy bisque. Indeed, this was the beauty of most of Callahan's creations that night--a wealth of bold ingredients that somehow came together as a marriage of clean, simple flavors. Even the dessert, a Grilled Upside Down Quince Cake with vanilla chantilly and bourbon caramel (yum), was topped with a few leaves of thyme, which somehow complimented the whole rather than distracting from it.

All in all, it was an evening of fabulous food, good wine, and (mostly) wonderful company. When the weather warms, I hope to return for another culinary adventure, one that includes a walk through the lovely grounds, which we missed in the November dark. I recommend you do the same!

Happy New (Garlic) Year

2009-11-07T07:29:00.000-08:00

Recently, I had the pleasure of spending a cool, fall morning volunteering at Serving Ourselves Farm. Located on Long Island in Boston Harbor, the farm is a beautiful spot to enjoy these last autumn days when you can still feel the warmth of the sun on your face. Our task for the morning? Planting garlic for next year. Although the fields will lie mostly dormant until the first onion sets are put down next spring, this is the first official planting of the coming season. As winter approaches, it's a simple and wonderful comfort to think that, even as this year's harvests are winding down with the last few crops of hearty greens, next year's cycle is already beginning. As was proclaimed out in the fields that morning, Let the 2010 planting begin!

Cloves of various varieties, such as German Porcelain White, wait in the back of the truck to be taken to the larger field.

Before planting can begin, we rake for weeds, smooth the beds, and mark rows in our best approximation of straight lines.

Out in the field, the seed cloves whose duty has been reassigned from make yummy food to make more garlic!

Planting works best as a team effort. Garlic should be planted six inches apart, so one person uses a notched measuring stick to lay out the cloves with proper spacing. Two of us follow behind, tucking each clove just under the surface, "butt end down."

It's a little tough to tell from this picture, but this clove of garlic was positively gigantic! You can get some sense of scale from the other cloves around it, as well as the busy earthworm. In the upper right corner you can also see one of the cloves that has been tucked away for the winter, its upper tip just peeking out through the soil.

Last but not least, the beds are covered with six inches of straw to keep them warm(ish) and protected through the harsh Boston winter.

Come April there will be fresh garlic and yummy garlic scapes in abundance.

Already I cannot wait for spring.

For more information on the farm and its job training programs for Boston's homeless, click here to read my article from last summer's Edible Boston magazine.

For more information on how you can volunteer at the farm or at the shelter on Long Island, contact Mariann Bucina at mariannbucina@fobh.org.

Slow Food Goes Digital

2009-10-31T05:19:00.000-07:00

This week I received the fall issue of Slow Food USA's quarterly magazine, The Snail. In a surprise twist, it arrived quietly in my e-mail inbox rather than falling with a thud through the mail slot of my front door. In an effort to deliver news to its members in a greener fashion, Slow Food has done away with the old print format and now delivers the mag through an on-line viewer. As a life-long reader who dearly loves the feel of paper pages in her hand, this member was skeptical at first. However, I was pleasantly surprised by how easy (dare I say enjoyable?) it was to read the magazine on-line. There are even virtual "pages," that turn in a remarkably realistic manner. The content, as always, was inspiring and informative. Below are a few of the highlights included in the current issue. Enjoy!

*Michael Pollan's September op-ed in the New York Times, in which he links health care reform to the reform of our food systems.

*The new USDA "Know Your Farmer, Know Your Food" campaign, which aims to create more and stronger connections between producers and consumers, all while strengthening rural communities, supporting small growers, and promoting the importance of knowing where your food comes from.

*And update on Slow Food's "Time for Lunch" campaign. Over 20,000 people attended the campaign's "eat-ins" on Labor Day weekend, and there are many ways you can still get involved before Congress votes on the Child Nutrition Act next spring. Click here to find out how you can help get whole, healthy foods into our nation's public schools.

Interested in receiving The Snail in your inbox? Click here to find out how you can become a member of Slow Food USA.

The Great Gratin Experiment. Or, Celeriac is My New Favorite Thing.

2009-10-28T15:57:00.000-07:00

After days of staring down small mountains of root veggies in my fridge, I finally got inspired enough to attempt a little cookery. As mentioned in a previous post, I've never cooked turnips or parsnips before, and I've never even tasted celeriac. I've also never made a gratin, but somehow this seemed like the perfect vehicle for the veggies in question. I had a hard time finding any recipes that didn't rely heavily on potato, but decided to go for it in spite of some worries that so many root-ish flavors might a little overpowering...

Result? Delicious!

My measurements were rather imprecise (as usual) so I can't provide a formal recipe here. But, I can tell you that I used both chicken stock and half & half for the liquid (rather than oodles of heavy cream). This resulted in a very rich flavor without overwhelming the tummy, and would probably make a nice substitution in any gratin. I can also say that any combination of root veggies and cheese (I used a little sharp cheddar and parmesan) will make for a delectable and satisfying dish, with or without potatoes. Although celeriac may not be pretty, the flavor is such a treat--much like celery, but richer and more full-bodied. Combined with the parsnips, turnips, and kohrabi, each bite was packed with distinct flavors, all brought together with the sauce and the cheese. Very, very yum, and very, very hearty on a cool fall night.

So, next time you're thinking of a regular potato gratin, give some less typical roots a try. I promise you will not be disappointed!

Nice Move Necco!

2009-10-26T13:03:00.000-07:00

With halloween just around the corner, it's nice to see that Necco Wafers, a classic, local candy (and one of my dad's favorites) have made the switch to all natural ingredients. When you just have to indulge that sugary urge, much better to ingest a little beet juice than artificial coloring!

Click here to read the full Boston Globe article on the new Necco Wafers.

Happy Halloween!

The Root of the Root

2009-10-22T13:11:00.000-07:00

This week, fall officially arrived in my ever-fabulous farm share from Red Fire Farm. In addition to some wonderful greens and winter squash, we got to pick from an astounding assortment of root veggies, many of which are new to me. Along with some lovely onions, we stocked up on parsnips, turnips, daikon and celeriac (that would be the lumpy, rather unappetizing orb hanging out front and center in the photo above). While I've eaten my share of parsnips and turnip (and maybe daikon, according to some vague memories from my youth), I have never actually cooked with any of them at home. And celeriac? Well, your guess is as good as mine.

Happily, all of these new veggies mean I get to have an extra experimental week in the kitchen. Hopefully I'll devise some winning recipes to share...and if you have your own fabulous root preparations, please do send them along!

Eat Well, Buy Fair.

2009-10-17T07:18:00.000-07:00

These days, lots of us do our best to eat fresh, local food as a favor to our bodies, our palates, and our planet. But, no matter how devoted we are to keeping it local, there are some things that can be awfully hard to give up. Take coffee, for example. I only drink one cup a day, but that cup is oh so very special. Wrapping my hands around that warm, steaming beverage makes early mornings at my desk feel like a treat rather than a chore. And while it's not a local treat, there are ways the conscious consumer can keep such simple pleasures from becoming guilty ones. What's the best place to start? Buy Fair. When you make the choice to buy a Fair Trade product, whether it's coffee, chocolate, or bananas, you're ensuring that small scale producers receive a fair price for their goods, which often enables them to raise themselves out of poverty. It also allows these producers to invest back into their community, which leads to countless social and environmental benefits.

This past week, I had the opportunity to learn more about Fair Trade at a dinner at Garden at the Cellar hosted by Green Mountain Coffee, which has a growing line of Organic Fair Trade coffees. I also got to taste some delicious dishes prepared by chef Will Gilson, whose culinary beginnings at the Herb Lyceum contributed to his focus on fresh seasonal food. The meal, which combined Fair Trade and local ingredients along with a tasting of Organic Fair Trade coffee from Green Mountain, was a preview of the Eat, Drink, and be Fair event happening this Wednesday at the Artists for Humanity Epicenter in South Boston. The event will feature creations from Chef Wilson, as well as chefs Jay Silva, Richard Garcia, and Peter McCarthy. It's a great opportunity to learn more about how you can buy Fair in your daily life, as well as to sample dishes featuring Fair Trade ingredients like coffee, tea, and vanilla. The event will celebrate the fact that October is Fair Trade month, as well as Boston's efforts to become a Fair Trade Town in 2010. (Go Boston!)

Below are some highlights from chef Gilson's meal last week. Based on this very yummy preview, this is one cook-off you do not want to miss!

Our meal began with a delicious amuse of heirloom pumpkin soup, pumpkins courtesy of Sparrow Arc Farm in Troy, Maine. These tiny cups were packed with rich fall flavors, and a lovely hint of spice for yet another layer of warmth.

The soup was followed an incredible plate of locally foraged mushrooms along with a slow-poached egg, black truffle, and a house made duck neck rillette that was breaded and fried. I had never tried duck before, but I dove in whole-heartedly and was amply rewarded. It blended perfectly with the full, earthy flavors of mushroom and truffle, all of which was brought together beautifully with the soft egg yolk. So yummy and satisfying on a cool fall night.

Our next dish incorporated the Green Mountain Free Trade coffee in a coffee and sunchoke puree that provided a perfect compliment to some slow-roasted chicken and a savory, house made chicken sausage.

For dessert, one of my favorites: a poached pear with a little something sweet on the side. In a delicious twist, the late season pear was tea-poached, lending it a subtle jasmine aroma. And when each bite was topped with a bit of caramel and vanilla bean whipped cream...perfection. Knowing that so many of the ingredients were Fair Trade, including the tea and the vanilla, made it all the more enjoyable.

Over dessert, we also had the opportunity to sample two of Green Mountain's Organic Fair Trade blends. We tried a Kenyan blend that was bright and fruity, along with a Sumatran that had a deeper, earthier flavor. As a lover of strong coffee, the Sumatran was my favorite, but it was surprisingly fun to taste coffee in a way that's usually reserved for wine. With the help of a Green Mountain expert, my fellow diners and I threw out words like "round" and "chocolatey," focusing on flavors and aromas that often go overlooked. It left me thinking that a coffee tasting brunch might be in order...all organic and Free Trade, of course.

For more information on Wednesday's event and how you can buy Fair, visit www.eatdrinkandbefair.com.

Pick a Peck of (Frozen) Peppers

2009-10-15T18:05:00.000-07:00

One of the joys of having a farm share this year has been learning more about the seasonality of the foods I eat. Some produce, including the delightful garlic scape, comes on line for a tiny little window that adds a special excitement to the month of June. Others have a much longer season, which in the case of lettuce has been a pleasant surprise for me--we are still getting incredible salad greens in our share each week, in spite of the increasing chill! I'm also learning that early fall is apparently peak season for all manner of peppers, as we've come home with at least two pounds of the beautifully colored fruits for the past few weeks. And, although we've enjoyed many of them on our salads or as a light, crispy snack, our refrigerator space has been increasingly consumed by bags full of reds, yellows, and greens. One can only eat so many peppers in a day!

Lucky for me, a quick internet search revealed that preserving peppers through the winter takes just three simple steps:

1) Wash.

2) Chop.

3) Freeze.

Suggestions for chopping varied, with some preservers going for a full dice and others simply halving and de-seeding their peppers. I opted for strips, as these can be kept long for stir fries or chopped smaller if needed. Now, I have a bag full of tasty, colorful ribbons to provide a taste of the farm throughout the winter.

Good News for the Monday Blues

2009-10-12T13:24:00.000-07:00

At long last, the business practices of Monsanto are being investigated by the Justice Department, with a focus on whether the company violated antitrust rules on its way to getting patented Monsanto genes into 96% of the soybean crop and 80% of the corn crop in the United States. Monsanto has long been acknowledged as a dangerously powerful bully in the seed industry, with films like Food Inc. documenting their ruthless tactics for squeezing out smaller competitors and farmers who refuse to buy their patented seed. Here's hoping this case marks the beginning of a return to the days when the best seed was part of the public trust, rather than a for-profit commodity.

Click here to read the full news item from the New York Times.

Food, Food, Food.

2009-10-11T09:08:00.001-07:00

Today's Times magazine is devoted to all things food, the perfect compliment to Sunday morning coffee. In addition to issues like hunger, malnutrition, and obesity, several of the articles present interesting ideas on moving toward healthier, more sustainable ways of eating, including:

*Mark Bittman's musings on how on-line grocery shopping might help the conscious consumer to eat fresher, more locally sourced food.

*A profile of Jeff Ford, a Wisconsin baker who uses organic, locally sourced grains and a natural fermentation method to make delicious breads that are not only sustainable, but also digestible for many people diagnosed with wheat allergies (Ford's theory is that the wheat varieties used in industrial production are better designed for monocultures and machine processes than the human digestive system). The article includes one fabulous looking recipe for whole wheat bread!

*And, of course, a contribution from Michael Pollan, "Rules to Eat By," a brief consideration of the role that culture can play in helping us to make smart food choices in an era of nutritionism and supplemented, processed foods. Pollan echoes some of his themes from In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto, but also looks forward to a new book he's working on, in which he'll gather some common sense eating wisdom from regular people like you and me (as opposed to a bunch of scientists). You can post your own rules and read Pollan's favorites through links at the end of the article.

Happy Sunday reading!

Red Meat, Clean Conscience.

2009-10-04T05:14:00.000-07:00

When I was fourteen, my biology teacher showed the class a film strip about industrial meat processing. Based on the terribly disturbing images and information I'd seen, I became an instant convert to vegetarianism and followed a meat and fish free diet until I moved to Spain after college. (It's tough to be a vegetarian in Spain--apart from the fact that the concept is not really understood, I had a hard time finding vegetable sources of protein, so I began eating seafood. Although I felt guilty at first, I quickly realized that this was an excellent choice for someone living right on the Mediterranean!) Even after adding seafood back into my diet, I continued to avoid meat for several more years, and I never once missed it. I happen to be crazy for veggies and grains, so vegetarianism was a natural fit. Then the hamburger dreams began.

About three years ago, I started dreaming, nearly nightly, about eating red meat. By day, I continued my regimen of zucchini, rice, and beans. But by night, I ate thick, juicy burgers and tender steaks, savoring every bite of rich, beefy flavor. When barbecue season hit, the smell of burgers sizzling over charcoal fairly sent me over the edge, and when my now husband began to rediscover the joys of grilling...well...I caved. I reasoned that these cravings, the likes of which I'd never experienced before, meant that my body needed something that meat had, and who was I to deny my body? All things in moderation, I told myself. To test the waters I had one little bite, and it was every bit as good as in my dreams. From single bites I moved down the slippery slope to mini-burgers and shared portions of steak, until I was finally ready for my own full servings (my husband let me know I was ready when I started eating half his dinner).

Now, I eat red meat with regularity, about once or twice a month. And, although this rate of consumption is much lower than that of the average American eater, I am plagued by my knowledge of where that meat comes from, how it is processed, and the animals and people who are exploited along the way. But, as I've discovered, finding guilt-free meat, especially beef, can be challenging. And, even when you do, a grass-fed (and grass-finished), locally and humanely raised piece of steak does not come cheap.

This, of course, is a big part of the problem; whereas red meat used to be an occasional treat for a special meal, we've come to think of it as a nearly daily staple, and an affordable one at that. Of course, the costs that used to be born by the consumer have now been buried in less visible places, as reported in today's New York Times (click here to read the article). Producers now use meat (and questionable meat-like by products, often processed with chemicals) from several different sources in order to make cheap, mass-produced ground beef of a particular fat content. And, under the not-so-watchful eye of the USDA, not nearly enough testing goes on to monitor whether these many beef sources contain E. coli, not to mention their general food safety practices.

This is nothing new, of course. Such issues have been covered by many an author and filmmaker at this point. And, although I am happy to see these issues being covered in front page newspaper stories, I was disappointed that such a large and thorough article on this subject made no mention of the role that corn feeding plays in the increase of dangerous E. coli in our food supply. As has been documented in many places, cows are not meant to eat corn. They are meant to eat grass. And although we have grown to love the fatty, marbled beef that corn feeding produces, one of the many terrible by-products of that method is a huge increase in E. coli. (A 1998 study by Cornell University showed that grass-fed cows have at least 80% less E. coli in their digestive tract than grain fed cows.) When cows are forced to eat corn, it acidifies their digestive tract, creating an ideal environment for acid resistant strains of E. coli to live and replicate. Because cows are immune to the bacteria's effects, they have become breeding grounds for strains of E. coli that render our normal defense against them--stomach acid--totally useless. Combine this reality with the reality of poor oversight and regulation, and you have one worrisome food system. Most disturbing to me is that so much of this processed "meat" winds up in our schools as part of the federal school lunch program. Yet another reason to support organizations like the Healthy Schools Campaign, who are fighting to give our children safe, well-regulated, whole foods.

So, how can someone who enjoys a good burger once in a while possibly do so in clean conscience, given all of these realities? A couple of small changes can actually go a long way in this regard.

First, stop expecting meat to be cheap. Although it can be shocking to read that grass fed beef is $22/lb., you can get a very delicious, reasonable portion for around $8. And, importantly, you know that you're paying the costs for its production up front, rather than waiting for them to surface in the form of a huge E. coli outbreak or a new strain of antibiotic resistant bacteria. You're also probably supporting a small and/or local farm, rather than a massive industrial producer.

Second, grind your own burger (or have someone do it for you if you're squeamish). To avoid hamburger that contains mystery meat from countless cows and often several plants, buy one piece of meat and make your burger from that. Most grocery stores will grind it for you if you ask, and any local butcher shop certainly will. You can also invest in your own grinder, which come in everything from old school, countertop hand cranks to stand mixer attachments. This may seem like a pain, but trust me: just knowing that you are eating real meat from only one cow makes it taste infinitely better.

Finally--and this is the one that's hardest for some people to stomach--eat less meat. It's a big change for some of us, but it's also relatively easy and could have a huge impact if we move in that direction as a society. As with other dietary changes that are better for our bodies and for the planet, I try not to think of it as giving something up. Instead, it's an opportunity to gain a better food source, and to get creative--on a night when you'd normally just grill an easy burger, you can break out a new recipe or try a new veggie instead. Although you may not always wind up with something quite as satisfying or delicious as you'd hoped, one thing is for certain: you, your neighbors, and your planet will be a little better off as a result.

Photo by Josh Bancroft on Flickr Creative Commons.

A Little Light Reading (and healthy eating!)

2009-09-26T08:09:00.000-07:00

Ecofoodie is back! Sated with all things Greek--think sun, wine, and tzadziki--if a little jet lagged and playing catch up with real life after so many weeks of festivities. A full report on local goodies in Greece is soon to come. In the meantime, you might peruse an article I wrote about the sustainable dining program at Harvard Medical School for the fall issue of Edible Boston.

If you are in the Longwood Medical Area, I highly recommend that you give one of the HMS cafes a try--the food is as good for the planet as it is for your body, and eating there helps to support our local farms! Plus, who wouldn't prefer a made-from-scratch Bacon Onion Tart to Chicken Fingers at the hospital caf?

Click here to read the article, and here to watch a very cool video on the "Farm to Cafe" cycle. Enjoy!

Bon Appetit. Bon Voyage!

2009-09-14T04:57:00.001-07:00

This newly married Ecofoodie is off to Greece for the next two weeks, and signing off of all things internet. Not to worry--there will be plenty of pictures of the tasty local eats (and drinks!) upon my return.

In the meantime, enjoy the flavors of fall. Kali Oreksi!

*Artwork by Julia*

Welcome, Fall

2009-09-10T17:07:00.000-07:00

I, without question, am a summertime girl. All through the cold, dark days of the long Boston winter, I huddle (cursing) under multiple blankets, waiting for the thaw to arrive. When spring finally comes I feel marginally better, but I continue to pine for those blisteringly hot and humid summer days, the kind that make everyone complain in whiny, molasses tones. I live for those days: 95 and sunny, not a cloud in the sky. Doesn't matter if it's dry or humid. I like heat. Heat of the sort that leaves you feeling melty and fiery from outside to in. Heat that lasts long into the night, laughing at the idea of an evening chill or goosebumps on the breeze. Heat that makes you swoon and sigh, renders you inert and lazy, incapable of motion.

So, what on Earth am I doing in Boston, you ask? I've spent many a winter night asking myself the very same question. Truly hot days are few and far between in our beloved Boston, but somehow I landed here several years ago and, like the weather or not, it looks like I am here to stay. So, with autumn all too rapidly approaching, I am attempting a change in outlook. Why curse the cold when it cannot be stopped? Instead, I will endeavor to embrace the onset of chilly nights and warm wool sweaters. And what better way to begin than with a new soup recipe? After all, if you can't warm yourself from the outside in, there's always the option of inside out.

Below is a recipe adapted from several I located on-line after doing a search for the farm share ingredients in my pantry: potato, kale, leeks, and carrots.

Potato & Kale Soup

Ingredients:

3 large leeks, thoroughly rinsed, cut in half lengthwise, and sliced

3/4 c chopped carrots

5 medium red potatoes, chopped

4-5 c chopped fresh kale

3 cloves garlic, chopped

2 T olive oil

1 T fresh thyme or 1 t dry

2 bay leaves

10 c low sodium vegetable or chicken broth

10 oz chorizo sausage (or therabouts--if you get a bold, spicy sausage just be careful not to overwhelm the soup!)

salt and pepper, to taste

One pot of steamy goodness!

Directions

Sautee the leeks and kale in olive oil over medium heat for several minutes while you chop the carrots and potatoes. Add carrots, potatoes, thyme, and garlic and sautee for about 5 minutes. Add the bay leaves, broth, and sausage. Bring to a boil then reduce to simmer for 30 minutes.

Add one glass of good red wine, some crusty bread, and enjoy the warmth of a cool, fall evening!

Eat Well, Do Good, Have Fun

2009-09-02T05:00:00.000-07:00

What could be better than enjoying a meal of fresh, organic produce prepared by one of Boston's best chefs? I'll tell you: knowing that the proceeds from that meal go toward Serving Ourselves Farm, where organic produce is grown for and by Boston's homeless. The farm, which provides a comprehensive job training program as well as fresh, nutritious produce for the Long Island Shelter, has a long-standing partnership with chef Chris Douglass. Douglass, who became a fan of eating local long before "locavore" became the buzzword of the moment, uses produce from the farm for his restaurants, including the Ashmont Grill.

This year, on September 10th, the Ashmont will host a fundraiser for the farm, featuring a harvest tasting menu of the farm's best produce. Having been to some scrumptious tasting events at the Ashmont Grill before, I can assure you that this is one dinner you do not want to miss. So grab your best foodie buddy and get your tickets here. Hope to see you there!

Click here to read my article about Serving Ourselves Farm in the Summer issue of Edible Boston!

Apples to Apples

2009-08-30T16:01:00.000-07:00

This ecofoodie is getting married in a few short days, so my fiance and I have been working on putting together the perfect welcome baskets for our guests. After much hemming and hawing over various options, it dawned on us: what better way to say welcome to Massachusetts in September then some crisp, freshly picked apples?

So, this past Friday, we headed out to pick our own at Honeypot Hill Orchards, in Stow, MA. Yes, it is a little early in the season, but after the Labor Day weekend, there will be countless orchards open for picking. And, like Honeypot, many of them have a full menu of nostalgic fall activities, like hay rides and hedge mazes. A perfect afternoon whether you have kids, or you just want to feel like one again.

The best part, of course, is rewarding yourself after a few hours of hard labor. I've yet to find a sweet treat that quite matches the glory of a hot, fresh cider donut washed down with a little hot coffee. Only two of this half dozen made it past the ride home, and by the next morning there was only an empty bag and a few lone crumbs to testify to their delicious existence. Luckily, we still have a refrigerator full of Sansa and Ginger Gold apples, just waiting to be shared and enjoyed.

Not sure where to go for pick-your-own in your neck of the woods? Click here for a full listing of Mass orchards, and get out there while the getting is good!

A Blueberry Birthday

2009-08-22T09:19:00.001-07:00

Today, my soon-to-be husband turns 31. What better way to say happy birthday than with some fresh-baked blueberry scones?Berries are such a seasonal treat, so best to take advantage of their sweet-tart goodness while you can! Below is the recipe, courtesy of a dear friend who makes these scones every Saturday for her three equally dear children. She makes them plain, topped with cinnamon sugar or chocolate chips. Indeed, the possibilities are endless with this light, fluffy recipe, so feel free to create your own variation--you can add whatever your little heart desires!

Fruit Scones

Ingredients:

2 c flour

1 T baking powder

1/2 t salt

1/4 c sugar

1/2 c fruit (cranberries, apricots, raisins, or fresh fruit**)

1 1/4 c heavy cream

1 T melted butter

1 T sugar

Mix the flour, baking powder, salt and sugar together. Add the fruit** (can be frozen). Add the cream. Mix together using spoon. Dough will be sticky. Knead 8-9 times onto a lightly floured board. Gently roll into a 10-inch circle. Spread the melted butter over the top and sides of the dough and then sprinkle sugar over the top. Cut into 12 wedges (a pizza cutter works well). Place wedges onto an ungreased cookie sheet. Bake for 15 minutes at 425.

**If using fresh berries or fruit, fold in when kneading is nearly done.

Forbidden Fruit

2009-08-19T15:39:00.000-07:00

Nothing says summer like a bowl brimming with fresh picked tomatoes. This week, thanks to my farm share, our kitchen is home to many forms of tomatoey goodness, including some gorgeous tomatillos. Sadly, for me, I cannot eat a one. Well...should not, at least. In recent years, I've developed some significant issues with acid reflux--I once lost my voice due to the condition--and this longtime favorite food is now verboten.

When we brought home these yellow cherry tomatoes this afternoon, I discovered one had burst at the bottom of the bag. I handed it to my fiance to be eaten immediately. He hummed with delight as he chewed, declaring that the amazing fruit took him right back to childhood days when he picked tomatoes right off the vine from his grandmother's garden. I'm going to eat one, I said, thinking of my own garden-picking days, only to be further enabled by my fiance's response. You should.

I did. And it was glorious.

Boston's Best Sashimi: Savory and Sustainable at Uni

2009-08-13T11:50:00.000-07:00

When it comes to seafood, sustainability is a complicated equation. It's not a simple as eating local, as the marine populations you have nearby might be the very ones that are most endangered. Nor can you simply choose one type of fish over another, as much depends on how the fish is caught. The method of catch effects everything from the quality of the fish, to mercury levels, to the amount of resulting bycatch (fish and animals caught accidentally in the gear and discarded overboard). Lucky for consumers, there is the Monterey Bay Seafood Watch, which offers thorough, fish by fish seafood recommendations, as well as information on many ocean issues. And just as lucky for us ecofoodies, many seafood chefs are making good use of such on-line tools in order to incorporate sustainability into their restaurant menus.

One such chef, Chris Chung of Boston's Uni Sashimi Bar, is bringing sustainable elements to the many incredible dishes on offer each night at this Ken Oringer restaurant. Chef Chung uses on line resources to research the best choices for the menu, as well as consulting with friends who are marine scientists. He uses Sea Bream instead of Snapper, many types of which are listed in the "avoid" category by Monterey Bay. He also uses Big Eye rather than Bluefin tuna, which is listed as "avoid" because all populations of Bluefin--wild or farmed--are being caught faster than they can reproduce. Chung also only uses pole & line caught fish, which has benefits across the board--little or no bycatch, much less mercury in fish where that is a concern, and also the freshest, highest quality fish on your plate, a high priority for Chung.

Indeed, this meticulous attention to freshness is evident in every dish and every ingredient at Uni, resulting in some of the most incredible flavors I have ever experienced. If you've never tried sashimi before, or if you think you're not a fan, you really must pay a visit to this cozy, inviting nook just downstairs from Clio. I can promise that you will never think the same way about sashimi again.

We started our night with the lobster ceviche, which set some high expectations for the rest of the meal. The layers of flavor seemed endless, creating a perfect medley of sweet lobster and mango, tangy citrus, brightness mint and cilantro, and just a hint of heat from the fresh jalapeno. The variety of textures was also perfection, with a little cucumber providing just the right amount of crunch.

I don't normally go for octopus, as it is so often cooked until its texture resembles a giant rubber band, but when we saw this dish being prepared for another guest, we simply had to try it. Chef Chung layered thinly sliced rounds of octopus onto a square plate, then covered them in a generous mix of sesame, ginger, cilantro, and soy sauce, followed by a drizzle of richly aromatic hot sesame oil. Result: another exciting, well-balanced blend of flavors, and the best octopus I've ever had.

The kinmedai was as beautiful as it was tasty, with a rich, smoky flavor that you would never expect from its delicate appearance. Like everything else we sampled, it was nicely complimented by the crisp, subtle flavors of my Ginko-Bai martini, made with Plum-infused sake and a Mountain Peach. Too yummy for words.

The desserts, which come from the menu at Clio, were as artful as the sashimi. My favorite? The cherry capsule: a frozen cylinder of cherry cracked open to send an amaretto caramel streaming onto the plate, surrounding a perfect scoop of sweet cream ice cream. No less amazing was the chocolate biscuit (pronounced bis-QUEE), which held its own delicious surprise: the warm chocolate cake revealed a sweet caramel center, all of which was complimented perfectly by some salty peanut ice cream--yes, it really is salty!--and the crunch of a few chopped peanuts.

Sadly, I have no dessert photos to show you here, but perhaps that is a blessing in disguise. Their gorgeousness, along with that of the sashimi plates, is much better appreciated in person. So grab some friends or that special someone and make your way over to Uni. You will be so very glad you did!

Frozen Basil, Two Ways

2009-08-09T09:34:00.001-07:00

As someone who has never even been able to raise a healthy houseplant, I continue to be very proud of my first successful attempt at gardening, however small. And, after a big harvest for pesto a few weeks ago, my six not-so-little basils are going stronger than ever. This weekend they were already in need of another round of picking, and given that we already had a huge bag of basil from our farm share, I decided it was time to try my hand at freezing a batch for the winter.

Google "freezing basil" and you will find a wealth of options and recommendations, many of which conflict: freezing whole leaves is fine, freezing whole leaves produces black, useless husks; freeze basil in oil, freeze basil in water; freeze it in a sheet, freeze it in cubes. Each writer was as adamant in her views as the next, so I finally decided to conduct my own comparison trial.

After pulsing half of the basil in the food processor, I generously filled an ice cube tray with the chopped leaves and poured water over each one. Result: success! The cubes, which popped easily out of the tray, are full of vibrant green basil that looks as fresh as when it was picked. (Click on the picture to get a bigger, better view!)

Next, I blended the other half of the basil (about 2 cups) in the food processor with about a quarter cup of olive oil. The result was a denser mixture that filled about half as many cubes as the first batch. While not quite as pretty (the frozen oil takes on a yellowish hue) or as crisp (the cubes are a little crumbly) as the cubes of basil and water, I'm optimistic that these little nuggets will do well in pasta sauce or salad dressing a few months from now. Of course, it's hard to say which method is really the best until that time, but for now I am enjoying that fact that I have a bag full of summer flavor in my freezer, just waiting to brighten up a cold, snowy day.

From Substance to Spectacle

2009-08-02T06:26:00.000-07:00

I will be the first to admit that I love a good food show on a lazy Sunday morning. As someone who loves to cook and loves to eat even more, I find myself regularly transfixed by Tyler Florence or Paula Deen--who wouldn't stop to watch someone make (and eat!) deep fried butter balls? All along, however, I've had an uneasy relationship with this kind of television, telling myself that it's an hour well spent--I'm learning something!--but knowing somewhere inside me that I'm walking away with very few additional skills or ideas, if any.

Enter Michael Pollan, who more than validates this feeling in his most recent article in The New York Times Magazine, "Out of the Kitchen, Onto the Couch: how American cooking became a spectator sport, and what we lost along the way." In it, he tackles a current paradox in our food culture: how is it that Americans are so eager to spend hours watching shows like Top Chefand The Next Food Network Star but spend less time actually using our kitchens than ever before? He traces the development of food television from the inspiring and unedited Julia Child to the current slew of shortcut-filled "dump-and-stir" shows on the Food Network. No longer are cooking shows designed to educate those who love to cook, argues Pollan. Instead, they are designed for those who love to eat, including competition-based shows like Iron Chefand Chopped, which are breathless, down-to-the-last-second affairs more akin to sporting events than a cooking lesson.

One thing we do get out of the Food Network, according to Pollan, is "culinary fashion," picking up fancy words like crudo. And, while such terms can provide the appearance of sophistication when ordering from a menu, they don't really improve our cooking skills, as illustrated by a recent incident in my own kitchen. As I prepared dinner for a dear friend who happens to know a great deal about food, I asked her opinion on how to best prepare basil. "Do you chop it or tear it?" I asked, having seen an episode of Rachel Ray wherein the host stated that some people prefer to tear it, as the knife can cause bruising. "I know you're not supposed to chop it," I said, as though I really knew a lot about the matter, "but I really like to do a nice chiffonade." My friend raised her eyebrows and smiled. "What's a chiffonade?" she asked, and we both had a good laugh at my use of such a fancy word in such an everyday setting. Yes, it's true the the thin ribbons of a chiffonade can make basil look extra pretty, but as my mother used to say when things didn't look the way I wanted them to on my plate, "It still tastes the same." In other words, what matters most in cooking is really the substance of what we create, a truth that we've lost sight of in many arenas today, the Food Network being just one of them.

In life, there is a place for just about everything in moderation, but Pollan's article has certainly added some weight to that funny Food Network feeling that I get when watching their programs. I can't say that I'll resist the temptation of tonight's finale episode of The Next Food Network Star, but maybe the next time I get the urge to plop down in front of some random food TV I'll head for the kitchen instead. Not only will I wind up with something delicious to eat, but I'll be much more likely to learn something along the way.

Endless Summer Salads

2009-07-23T05:15:00.001-07:00

Just at the point in the season when you're wishing for a creative new salad idea, Mark Bittman has come to the rescue. His "Minimalist" column from yesterday's New York Times features "101 Simple Salads for the Season," a wealth of easy, surprising ideas for enjoying your favorite fresh ingredients.

Just a quick glance reveals some inspired combinations. What will I try first? No. 7: carrots, blueberries, and sunflower seeds with a simple olive oil and lemon juice dressing. With the rainbow carrots that came in this week's farm share, it will be a taste and color sensation!

Photo courtesy of twenty questions, via Flickr Creative Commons.

Find Your Favorites

2009-07-21T16:10:00.000-07:00

Wondering where you can find that light purple Asian eggplant that you tried and loved last year? A crispy Braeburn apple? Fresh garlic for some ultra-fresh pesto? Look no further. The Mass Farmers Markets website has a handy index where you can search for your favorite fresh goodies. Just click on find, and you can see a listing of all the farms and markets that offer what you're looking for! Voila!

Fresh Garlic: A Summertime Treat

2009-07-16T18:35:00.000-07:00

Up until a couple of weeks ago, I would have told you that I always cook with fresh garlic. By this, I would have meant that I do my own peeling and chopping, stinky fingers and all, rather than using powders or pre-diced products from jars. What I never realized was that the garlic I buy at the store is not in fact fresh, but dried. I suppose the paper skins should have been a clue, but "fresh" garlic is most often defined as I had done for so many years. Indeed, a quick internet search for the term brings up a whole host of sites that refer to the contrast between "fresh" garlic and powdered or minced, when what they really mean is dried.

And so it was that, when a true specimen of fresh garlic arrived with my farm share last week, a friend and I stood marveling over its size and form. Do you think this part is edible? We stood in my kitchen, both of us examining the stiff, dry greens coming off of an impossibly tall stalk. I'm sort of tempted to try it, said my friend. We looked at each other, and in a matter of seconds we each had a piece in our mouths. I felt my eyes water and my sinuses clear in a wasabi-like rush as I chewed on the tough, sharp morsel, and the two of us agreed we were fortunate that we did not have to do any mingling that night. The stalk, we concluded, was not edible.

Fresh garlic, I have since learned, is only available for a small part of the year. After growing through the winter and spring seasons, the garlic is ready for harvest in the summer. And, while some of the bulbs can be enjoyed fresh, they will not keep throughout the year. Thus, most garlic is dried, giving it a much longer shelf life. The stalks can be used for soup stocks or compost but, as my friend and I concluded, they are not much good for eating. The fresh cloves, however, are delicious, and can be used in any recipe where you would use dried garlic.

Unlike their dried counterparts, I discovered, the skins of raw garlic are silky and smooth, peeling away from the clove in one satisfying piece. The clove itself was almost watery to the touch, resulting in a crisp, translucent pile of aromatic goodness as my knife moved through it. Sauteed with some fresh zucchini and yellow squash and tossed with a little pasta, it provided the powerful garlic flavor that I know and love, but brought a certain sweetness to the dish. It had all of the punch, but a little less bite--perfect for a light pasta dish.

Later in the week, I used two more glorious cloves to make fresh pesto, something I am embarrassed to say I had never done before. Now that I realize how easy it is (and now that I have six thriving basil plants on my back porch), you can bet that this will become a regular event in my kitchen. Below is the scrumptious recipe, courtesy of another friend who recently passed it along. My advice to you: hit the farmers market and track down some truly fresh garlic while you can. Grab your favorite bottle of summer wine, whip up a batch of pesto, toss with pasta, and voila! A summer dinner that's fresh, easy, and a true taste treat.

Mattie's Three-Herb Pesto (makes about 1 cup)

2/3 c each of firmly packed basil, mint, and parsley leaves

1/3 c pine nuts, toasted

1/3 c freshly grated Parmesan cheese

2 large garlic cloves, minced and mashed to a paste with 1/2 t salt

1/2 c olive oil

1 T balsamic vinegar, or to taste (if you like a citrusy flavor, a squirt of lemon juice can also work nicely as an acid here)

In a blender or food processor, puree all ingredients with salt and pepper to taste until smooth. (Pesto keeps in a jar with tight-fitting lid, chilled, up to 1 week.)

Saying No to GMOs

2009-07-14T15:05:00.001-07:00

You may have seen the tongue-in-cheek commercials for Hulu, the internet website where you can watch as much tv as your little heart can handle. They'll "turn your chunky gray matter into creamy goo matter" with so much TV they say, in an "evil plot to destroy the world." These ads, of course, strike preemptively at critics who might say that television rots your brain, and that collecting so much of it on line would do so even faster. Whichever side you fall on in that debate, I'd argue it's worth paying the website a visit; right now on Hulu you can watch the full-length documentary, The Future of Food, absolutely free of charge. Somehow I missed the release of this film in 2004, but its arguments about genetically engineered products are no less relevant today, and I was thoroughly delighted to discover it amidst countless episodes of Family Guy and Top Chef.

Although it gets off to a bit of a slow start, The Future of Food centers around one compelling question: what does it mean for the future of our food supply, indeed the future humanity, that we've allowed corporations to place patents on life? The film offers a view of genetic engineering in our food system that is both broad and deep. It covers the threat that huge monocultures pose to our food security, as well as the actual and potential consequences of pesticide resistance and antibiotic resistance in GE crops. Not to mention the vast unknowns related to how consumption of these products affects human health. And, as in Food, Inc., there are stories of individual farmers who've been sued by Monsanto, for the accidental but inevitable cross-pollination of patented seed into the fields that they've been farming for decades. The film also examines the international consequences of the choices that the United States is making regarding GE crops, including the contamination of many heirloom varieties of corn in Mexico, varieties that aren't just part of that country's food supply, but of its cultural heritage.

The web of potential consequences is more than a little anxiety provoking, and perhaps most frightening of all is the existence of "terminator technology," or "suicide genes," about a dozen of which had already been patented when the film was made. These genes ensure that, after one growth cycle, a plant will essentially self-destruct, rendering its seed sterile and unusable for any future planting. For such genes to cross-contaminate with crops here and around the world would be devastating in ways we can't begin to imagine. As one researcher stated in the film, we run the risk of surrounding ourselves with "green desserts," wherein everything looks the same, but is being transformed from the inside, and could be wiped out at any moment.

Thankfully, the film ends with a reminder that, just as there has been a revolution in the industrialization of our food supply, there is a rapidly growing counter-revolution in the form of CSAs, organic and family farming, and many other ways in which consumers are choosing sustainable, planet-friendly food sources. In addition to speaking with our wallets, there are many ways that we can and should get involved to stop the unregulated, untested spread of genetically engineered crops into our food supply. One of the most important changes that needs to take place is a labeling system that lets consumers know when a product is genetically engineered or contains GE ingredients; after all, if we don't know where GE products are, we can't choose not to buy them. For a comprehensive list of organizations working on these issues, visit the "Get Involved" section of the film's website. Whether you donate to an activist group, volunteer for one in your community, sign an internet petition, or write to Congress, it's more important than ever to make our voices heard on this issue. The future of our food supply depends on it.

To watch The Future of Food on Hulu, click here.

Photo courtesy of Jaako, Flickr Creative Commons

Sustainable Sushi

2009-07-11T12:20:00.000-07:00

These days I find myself thinking about fish. A lot. Am I eating enough? Am I eating too much? Which kinds can I eat? Is it wild or farmed? Fresh or frozen? Healthy or harmful? And then there are the environmental questions; from overfishing, to antibiotics, to habitat damage, the choices we make have as much impact on the health of the ocean as the health of our bodies. With so many voices offering differing opinions on all of these issues, seafood can be an extremely tricky puzzle for an ecofoodie to unravel. Sometimes, it seems easier to just throw in the towel and not eat seafood at all. But then I find myself at my favorite sushi bar, and there's just no way I can opt for vegetable stir fry when faced with so many more exciting possibilities. If you love your spicy tuna roll but you also love our oceans, take heart; you don't have to choose between them. You just have to learn how to read between the lines.

As part of their Seafood Watch program, the Monterey Bay Aquarium has recently created a Seafood Watch Sushi Guide for those of us who like our seafood extra fresh. From Ebi (shrimp) to Aku (tuna) to Unagi (eel), the guide lists a multitude of sushi options, each one placed into one of three categories: "Best Choice," "Good Alternative," and "Avoid." If you eat sushi often, you might just memorize where your favorite options fall and try to steer clear of those you should avoid. Or, if you're better with paper lists than mental ones (as am I), you can download their handy pocket guide and tuck it into your wallet to be called upon when needed. You might even use it as an inspiration to try something new-choose three green options you've never tried before and let the culinary adventure begin! And if the menu doesn't tell the full story, don't be afraid to ask your server. If the answer doesn't jive with what's sustainable, you've got a perfect opportunity to express your concerns to the restaurant--if they hear it from enough of their customers, they might just make a change!

To learn more about how you can promote the use of sustainable within your community, click here.

Photo courtesy of LexnGer, Flickr Creative Commons

Fun With Beets and Kale

2009-07-08T05:31:00.000-07:00

As my fiance and I enter the fifth week of our farm share, we are still utterly enamored of the harvest that comes our way each week. The staples, like fresh beets and scallions, are always welcome, and every Wednesday there is something new to give us a little thrill. This week: new potatoes!

Still, when you find yourself staring down at enormous bunches of kale, Swiss chard, and beet and turnip greens each week, you do start to wonder how many times you can sautee them with garlic and onion, delectable an option as it is.

Lucky for me, Red Fire Farm sends out seasonal recipes with each week's harvest e-mail, and keeps even more on their fabulous website. Whether you have a farm share or are just looking for a creative way to prepare your goodies from the market, it is a great place to turn for some delicious and often surprising ideas. My favorite so far? Kale chips! I've included the recipe here, and you can follow this link to see the other yummy ideas that Red Fire has in store for you.

Easy Kale Chips

1 lb kale, chopped
Preheat oven to 400
Toss kale with olive oil, salt and pepper. Spread out on a baking sheet and bake, turning every 5 minutes until brown and crispy. Kale should be dry and able to be eaten by hand like chips!

Let's Do Lunch

2009-07-04T08:42:00.000-07:00

I grew up eating homemade lunches at school. My (very) small Montessori school had no cafeteria, and so I didn't confront the perils of the lunchroom until I was in 8th grade, by which time I'd had enough life experience with real food to know that the items on offer--from pasty "chicken" nuggets to reconstituted potatoes--were food-ish, at best. I avoided school cafeteria food until I finished high school, opting for peanuts out of the vending machine on days when I forgot my lunch at home.

I don't think much about school lunch these days, being many years done with high school and without any children of my own. Recently, however, this subject has moved to the front of my mind, as the impending renewal of the Child Nutrition Act has begun to shine a spotlight on a culinary experience that is of huge national importance, albeit one that most of us would sooner forget. The act, which will be renewed in September, governs the National School Lunch Program, which sets the guidelines for the meals that over 30 million children in our country receive each day. While the 2004 reauthorization of the act took some worthwhile steps in requiring all school districts to adopt wellness policies, we are still a long way from serving fresh, healthy food in our public schools. However, as evidenced by the many grass roots campaigns currently underway (links below), 2009 presents an opportunity for all of us to get involved toward making some strides in that direction.

In a new book, David Kessler, the former head of the FDA who took on big tobacco, argues that we are effectively conditioning our children into a lifelong desire for unhealthy food by feeding them such salty, fatty, and sugary processed meals at this phase in their development. In the book, The End of Overeating: Taking Control of the Insatiable American Appetite, he makes a host of interesting arguments around the connections between the powerful food industry, the salt-fat-sugar trio, and the resulting brain chemistry that makes it so hard for so many of us to make smart food choices. Although some may label him a conspiracy theorist, it stands to reason that the way young, developing brains learn to interact with food is as experience-dependent as any other domain. I offer my own experience as testament to that fact; by the time I was presented with "salisbury steak" and gloopy "gravy," I'd learned too much about real food to be tempted; it just didn't look, smell, or taste like anything I'd ever seen on a plate. But, as Kessler argues, many children who aren't so lucky find such high impact processed food far more appealing than a plain old apple, even irresistible.

Good nutrition, in addition to the obvious health benefits, has been shown to help children perform better in school, which translates to a serious impact on their future, and ours. Even if your children are grown or you don't intend to have children (or you do have children but can afford to avoid public school lunches altogether), all of us stand to gain from raising generations of healthy individuals who can achieve their full potential. And, even if you are not moved by the individual stories of obese young children with type II diabetes, the economic and social costs of not changing our ways are to steep to ignore. Only a few months remain to make an impact in this very important part of our food system--please visit the sites listed below for more information on how you can join the many voices speaking out for change.

*Click here to sign the Food, Inc. petition to serve school lunches that include "low fat and safe dairy, fresh fruits and vegetables, and whole grains." (Over 50,000 signatures were delivered to Congress on June 24th, but it's not too late to sign!)

*The Healthy Schools Campaign is also organizing to move the act in a healthier direction, providing information and help in contacting your local legislator on their website.

*Slow Food USA has a great campaign and platform, and you can find more information here.

*To hear Kessler speak about his arguments and the ideas behind them on a recent episode of On Point, click here.

A Few of My Favorite Things...and a Recipe!

2009-06-28T14:26:00.000-07:00

This week marked our third pick up as part of our farm share from Red Fire Farm. And, while I knew I would enjoy the weekly bounty of local, organic produce, I had no idea just how much fun it would be. Every week we receive into our kitchen a plethora of tasty veggies, and there are always a few that I've never tried before. From field greens, to beets, to garlic scapes, the summer is off to a glorious start. Below are a few of the most enjoyable discoveries I've made thus far.

Sauteed spinach, garlic scapes, and pine nuts tossed with whole wheat pasta. Cooked on the same day it was picked, the sweet, green flavors of the spinach were perfect with a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese and a glass of red.

This bowl contains a couple of unlikely new favorites. The red leaf lettuce is joined by slices of raw Hakurei turnip, those little white rectangles you see here. I was as as skeptical as you are about eating raw turnip, but after trying a sample offered by the lovely ladies from Red Fire, I am hooked. The flavor is both sweet and sharp...almost like a marriage between a radish and a carrot. Speaking of which, I did join a few carrots with some raw beets to make a brilliantly colored simple slaw. Dressed with a simple vinaigrette of olive oil and white balsamic vinegar, the resulting sweet and tangy crunch made the perfect salad topper. (If you think you don't like beets, it's worth grabbing a couple fresh from a farm stand--wrap them individually in tin foil and roast them at 400 till soft. Peel and toss with olive oil, salt, and pepper. I'd wager you'll find yourself among the ranks of the converted!)

My most cherished revelation thus far: the garlic scape. When the bud of the garlic flower emerges from the garlic plant, the result is these surprising, elegant scapes, which must be picked to allow the garlic bulb to grow to full size. They can be used in any recipe where you might normally use garlic or onion. I'm also told they can be eaten raw, tossed with salads and such, but I have yet to give this a try. Sauteed in your favorite recipe, they will impart a mild, garlicky flavor, and a smooth but firm texture, much like asparagus that's been cooked just right.

Below is a recipe for a garlic scape frittata that I modified from the America's Test Kitchen Family Cookbook. I made it for some afternoon festivities last weekend, and it was gone in a flash.

Ingredients:

6 large eggs, lightly beaten

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

salt, to taste

pepper, to taste

1 T olive oil

2-4 garlic scapes, chopped (the number will vary depending on their size and your love of scapes)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Whisk together the eggs, Parmesan, salt, and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a 10-inch nonstick ovenproof skillet (this is important, as the frittata will finish cooking in the oven). Add the garlic scapes and cook until just beginning to soften, about 3-4 minutes. Add the eggs and stir gently until the eggs on the bottom are set firm, about a minute. Gently pull the cooked eggs away from the edges of the pan and tilt the pan so that the uncooked egg runs into the cleared edge of the pan. Continue with this process all around the pan until most of the egg is set, 1-2 minutes. (The top will not be cooked, but that is where the oven comes in). Transfer the pan to the oven and bake for about 3-4 minutes, until the top is dry to the touch. Loosen the frittata with a spatula and flip it onto a serving plate. Serve warm, at room temperature, or cold. Fast, simple, and delicious--buen provecho!

Proud Mama

2009-06-27T08:46:00.000-07:00

So far so good with my six (not so) little basils! In spite of the record-breaking month of cold, soggy gloom in Boston, they are growing big and strong. Soon to come: homemade pesto!

Serving Ourselves Farm in Edible Boston Magazine

2009-06-25T11:53:00.001-07:00

This past spring I had the pleasure of spending a couple of days volunteering at Serving Ourselves Farm, located on Long Island in Boston Harbor. The organic farm provides much needed high quality produce to underserved populations in the Boston area. It also serves as a job training program for homeless individuals residing on the island, giving them the opportunity to learn about many different aspects of food production and the farm to table cycle. Click here to read the piece I wrote about my experience for the summer issue of Edible Boston.

Yes, that is me in the picture, looking much too serious!

Henrietta's Fabulous Table

2009-06-23T05:30:00.001-07:00

When my mother arrived in town this past Friday, I knew I wanted to take her someplace special for dinner. Normally, in June, I would have thought first of the most delicious dining spots with outdoor seating. But, given the dreary weather that persists in this town, patio dining was not an option. I wanted a meal that could remind us of the season, even if the weather would not. And so we found ourselves at Henrietta's Table, where my mother, my fiance, and I kicked off our visit with a fabulous, locally-inspired supper.

Our starter plate of local cheeses, including a tangy bleu, a scrumptious soft cheese, and the most complex, flavorful cheddar I've ever had the pleasure of eating.

All three of us enjoyed delicious salads with fresh local greens. Mine featured pastrami salmon, chive oil, crispy potato wafers, and Vermont creme fraiche. The perfect combination of salty, creamy, and crunchy. Yum.

Maine Rock Crab Cakes with seasonal asparagus and a creamy remoulade. The crab was sweet, flaky, and perfectly seasoned. Not a breadcrumb in site.

Last but certainly not least, our seasonal strawberry shortcake desert. We nearly didn't order it, as we were uniformly stuffed, but we decided we really ought to do our part for Mass Farmers Markets. For those of you who may not have heard of the Strawberry Dessert Festival, participating restaurants are donating a portion of proceeds from strawberry desserts to Mass Farmers Markets, through June 28th. The perfect excuse to indulge!

Coming Soon (tomorrow!) to a Theater Near You...

2009-06-18T10:23:00.001-07:00

Earlier this week, thanks to the lovely folks at Edible Boston magazine, I had the opportunity to attend an advance screening of Food, Inc. at the Kendall Square Theater. The film, a documentary directed by Robert Kenner, presents a remarkably comprehensive picture of the troubles plaguing our current food system. Although the cast of characters and issues are familiar to many of us (Monsanto, factory farms, and corrupt government officials on one side; Michael Pollan, Joel Salatin, and public seed on the other), Kenner has put the pieces together in a clear, concise manner that makes it easy to understand these very complex issues. He has also done a remarkable job of illuminating the human suffering that results from our current food system, a subject that often takes a back seat to the animal suffering involved. There are long-time farmers being forced to pay for patented seed or face a lawsuit, undocumented workers being treated as a disposable work force, and families all across the country who want to make better food choices for their children but can't afford to when broccoli costs five times as much as a two liter of soda.

The film is informative without being preachy or sensational, and will surely strike a chord with many, many viewers, including those who aren't as familiar with these issues. It also reminds us that we do have tremendous power as consumers, and that every dollar we spend sends a message to the farmers and companies involved, as well as our government. Choosing locally raised chicken during one trip to the grocery store may feel insignificant, but the cumulative effect of these small personal choices sends big messages to the decision-makers in this system; even Walmart, the biggest player of them all, made all of their milk hormone free based on consumer choices.

Whether you're new to the sustainable food movement or you think you've heard it all before, this is a movie that we all need to see. It is both convincing and inspiring, and will hopefully serve as a much needed vehicle for growing the grass roots movement required to effect real change.

So get out there this weekend and head to the theater! Then visit their website to find out what you can do to create a food system that's healthy for our bodies, our minds, and our planet.

(For theaters and showtimes near you, click here!)

In My Mother's Garden...

2009-06-13T05:37:00.000-07:00

...you will find four varieties of tomatoes--including yellow--green beans, squash, cucumbers, lettuce, and zucchini. Oh, and some brilliantly red radishes, which have been proclaimed "so, so spicy!" The raised veggie bed was suggested by a landscaper my mother hired to make some non-edible improvements to her back yard (three cheers for him!), and now she has a full season of crisp, fresh flavor to look forward to.

If only she lived a little closer than Oklahoma. When the afternoon sun grows far too hot, we could have garden parties in the shade with green bean salad and a cold glass of Prosecco. Lucky for me she will be visiting next weekend, and we can do just that.

Fruitopia

2009-06-10T06:03:00.000-07:00

In this morning's New York Times, Kim Severson has a great article about urban produce-sharing programs.

Through Neighborhood Fruit, backyard growers can register their fruit trees and share their harvest when the time is ripe. Don't have a fruit tree to share? Not to worry. You can still get in on the picking for a small fee. At Veggie Trader, you can also swap and share produce from your garden.

What a fabulous way to get some fresh, local goodies and get to know your neighbors while you're at it!

Six Little Basils...

2009-05-31T09:20:00.000-07:00

Last summer, my fiance found himself inspired by the abundance of herbs in the aisles of Home Depot. He bought a planter, attached it to our tiny back porch rail, and filled it to the brim with green. There was basil, sage, parsley, and more, and we dreamed of eating fresh, herbaceous dinners all summer long.

Not two weeks later, every plant in the bunch was moldy and yellowed. What on earth was the problem? Was it the wrong kind of soil? Not enough light? Were the plants moldy to begin with? Our own ineptitude at growing? No matter the cause, there was nothing to do but get rid of them. We contemplated going in for another round, but our disappointment was too great.

It's a new year though, so when I saw these little basils at the Atlas Farm stand at the Copley Square Farmers Market, I just couldn't resist. They were so lovely and green, and I knew they'd been much better cared for in their youth than the wilted masses at Home Depot, where I have since noticed that the herbs are, quite often, covered in mold. (Lesson: buy living things at the market, not the big box store). Still, given my not-so-great history of trying to grow things, I was nervous about the whole proposition. But, I told myself, if I'm ever going to have a garden, I have to start somewhere.

The little plants lived on my kitchen window sill for a few cold, rainy days, but when yesterday dawned warm and sunny, I knew the moment of truth had come.

I cleaned out the planter, shown here with last years soil and some industrious little weeds. If only herbs could grow so easily!

The basils had some time to get used to their new home while it dried.

And then, voila! Carefully planted and watered, they busily soaked up the sun from their perch above the Astroturf. They look happy as can be, for now.

Now we watch, and wait, and water.

Slow Food, Southern Style

2009-05-29T08:28:00.000-07:00

Not long ago I had the opportunity to visit Callaway Gardens, a very special resort just an hour outside of Atlanta. These are not your typical gardens; much of the 13,000 acres is made up of forests that have been naturally restored over the years from land that had been devastated by the monoculture of cotton farming. Now, the lush landscape is interwoven with hiking and biking trails, with a wide variety of ecofriendly activity and lodging options available to visitors.

Perhaps most delightful for this visitor was the discovery that Callaway's mission--"connecting man and nature in a way that benefits both"--has grown to include the Slow Food philosophy. At Gardens Restaurant, pictured here, much of the menu is locally grown and produced, including veggies from Mr. Cason's Vegetable Garden, a 7.5 acre growing plot located right in the heart of the resort. Diners can enjoy a southern-themed menu full of locally sourced items, including fresh goat cheese from Sweet Grass Dairy and pan seared Alabama shrimp, as well as gorgeous stacks of fried green tomatoes. The muscadine salad dressing, made with a local grape variety that's a Callaway specialty, was also a delightful treat over some organic greens. All told, the menu at Gardens is a reminder of how important it is to keep our local food cultures alive and thriving. Regional cuisine is not only a key part of our cultural history, but also part of what makes travel so enjoyable. How exciting to discover the sweet flavor of a new grape variety, rather than the same chain restaurant items everywhere you go.

So, next time you find yourself in the Atlanta area, or if you're looking for the perfect spot for a relaxing getaway, pay a visit to this southern gem. Just be prepared to extend your stay by a day or two; once you're there, you'll never want to leave!

Tough Time for Local Dairies

2009-05-29T06:29:00.000-07:00

Click here to read today's New York Times article on how the current recession is impacting small, organic dairy farms. Just another reminder that it's more important than ever to support our local farms.

Farmers Market Fun

2009-05-26T09:51:00.000-07:00

This morning, seeing as I am on vacation, I indulged myself in a springtime treat: a sunny morning walk through the Copley Square Farmers Market. Although it's early in the season, there was plenty of local goodness on offer.

The ultimate in fast food. In case you can't read the sign, this is the "Boston Goat Cheese Picnic" from Crystal Brook Farm in Sterling, MA. Each bag contains a delectable lunchtime menu: goat cheese with olive oil and herbes de provence, french bread, and trail mix, plus utensils and a $1 off coupon for your next purchase. A fabulous reason to forget your lunch!

The Atlas Farm stand was overflowing with the season's first produce, local and organic...

as was my kitchen table when I got home.

The basil will be planted, with hopes of better success than last year.

The kale will be sauteed with onions and garlic.

The strawberries will be gone by supper.

The rest, including the cilantro and jalapeno goat cheese--yum!--will provide delicious lunchtime salads for days to come.

Don't you just love spring?

Asparagus in Abundance

2009-05-22T05:11:00.000-07:00

Last Sunday evening, a friend and I attended an Italian style Asparagus Festival hosted by Slow Food Boston and chef Chris Douglass at Tavolo, his newest restaurant in Dorchester. Douglass, who has always been committed to buying fresh, local produce for his restaurants whenever possible, took some of his cooks out to Sunderland, Massachusetts the Friday before, where they hand-harvested the first asparagus shoots of the spring for Sunday's supper.

While the kitchen worked furiously to whip up a plethora of asparagus dishes, servers passed around trays of springtime cocktails--my favorite was the Campari punch--while diners got a short lesson in asparagus history. Apparently, the Connecticut River Valley was known as "the asparagus capital of the world" for much of the 20th century. In 1950, in fact, farmers in the area produced 50 tons of asparagus each season, aided by the sandy loam soil left behind by a glacial lake that once filled the valley. Then, in the 1970s, a virus essentially wiped out the crops of some 200 area farms that were growing asparagus, and many farmers could not afford the investment of money and time required to plant a new, disease-resistant variety a few years later. A small group of determined growers continued to plant asparagus, but the heyday was over.

When the dishes began to emerge from the kitchen at Tavolo, I felt deeply grateful for this small group of holdouts, including Enterprise and Smiarowski Farms, where our spears had been gathered. There was a light and fluffy asparagus quiche with a firm buttery crust, tender asparagus-stuffed chicken, and a sort of cheesy asparagus mousse, a little piece of heaven on a spoon. There was asparagus risotto, creamy asparagus pasta with a savory ham, and perfectly cooked simple spears, which let the crisp, bright flavors of the freshly picked vegetable speak for themselves. Finally, when we thought we couldn't possibly find room for another mouthful, the servers brought out small plates of asparagus ice cream, served with strawberries and a sweet balsamic reduction. This was a first for me, and I was pleasantly surprised by the sweet, grassy taste. I'm not sure I would have identified the flavor as asparagus if I hadn't already known, but I would definitely identify it as a yummy, refreshing dessert.

If you're sorry you missed this bonanza of fresh, local flavor, don't fret. It's not too late to get your fill of this springtime treat! On Saturday, May 30th, you can head to the Annual Strawberry and Asparagus Supper at the First Congregational Church in Hadley, MA. Call (413) 584-4117 to reserve your spot at one of two sittings (5:00 & 6:30).

Beefy Mustardy Comfort

2009-05-17T12:44:00.000-07:00

These are the words that my lunch companion used to describe the Wild West sandwich at O'Naturals, where we stopped in for a bite last week. The sandwich, which features wild prairie raised bison meatloaf, is just one delicious pick from a menu designed to be as healthy and planet-friendly as possible, while still providing quick service to people on the go. This means lots of organic ingredients, and no additives, preservatives, or growth hormones.

The restaurant, created in part by the husband and wife team who bring us Stonyfield Farm yogurt, also aims to make each of its locations an active part of local community development. With this in mind, they donate a portion of their sales each evening to local non-profits, giving local-minded consumers yet another reason to stop by when they need a good, quick meal.

The missing piece? Local farmers. No one is perfect, but it seems that the next simple step toward a goal of planet-friendly fast food (and in supporting community development) would be partnering with nearby farms at each location. If this tasty, healthy menu was also local, it would provide a pretty tempting excuse to leave the lunch bag at home once in a while and treat yourself to something different!

The Perils of the Icebox

2009-05-15T06:05:00.001-07:00

I eat local whenever I can. In the summer, when farm stands everywhere are overflowing with gorgeous produce and other locally produced fare, this is easy. In the depths of the Boston winter, however, when the words "fresh" and "local" can't coexist in the same sentence, when you barely get to see the sun because you work 10 hour days in an office building, when the wind chill is makes you feel like you might break into 1,000 pieces...well, on those days, sometimes you just want dinner to be easy and hot. These are the days when that frozen lasagna at the back of the freezer comes in oh so handy. Does it taste as good as a homemade lasagna would? Clearly not. But all you have to do is pop it in the oven, and an hour later you're snug under a blanket with a piping hot plate of comfort food and a glass of red wine.

This, of course, is a guilty pleasure. Whenever I do indulge in a quick, easy (and processed) meal, a chorus of voices speaks softly as I eat, reminding me of the petroleum trail that such foods leave in their wake, the local producers who struggle to compete against big business, and the sometimes mysterious ingredients listed on the back of the box. And now, there is yet another reason that such foods aren't really a pleasure after all. An article from the Business section of the New York Times explains that it's growing more and more difficult for processors to ensure the safety of their food. Under growing pressure to keep prices down, manufacturers get their ingredients from an increasingly murky global supply chain--some can't even tell you who their suppliers are, and they certainly can't tell you what sorts of safety precautions those suppliers take...or don't. For this reason, even the most unlikely ingredients--from peanuts to spices--can now play host to dangerous microbes. The frozen foods aisle, because products there so often contain long ingredient lists, is now a prime concern. And producers are placing the onus on consumers to ensure that frozen food is safe by using a food thermometer to monitor temperature, something that most Americans rarely do. Not so quick and easy after all.

This year, between my farm share and some late season trips to the farmers markets, I hope to stock my freezer with options that are healthier for my body and for the planet. That way, when the cold and fatigue of February roll around again, I can reach for some local butternut squash instead of a mystery box. That will be a true pleasure.

And in the Other Corner...

2009-05-13T05:29:00.001-07:00

Frito-Lay, your newest "local" producer.

Read this New York Times article about how big business is appropriating ideas from the local food movement in hopes of making big bucks. "Mission creep" just about says it all.

Get Fresh

2009-05-12T14:52:00.000-07:00

On Thursday, May 28th at 7:00 pm, there will be a Cambridge screening of the new film, Fresh. The movie, which chronicles the growing movement away from industrial agriculture, "celebrates the farmers, thinkers and business people across America who are re-inventing our food system."

To sweeten the pot, there will be a panel discussion following the screening, featuring local chefs and policy makers, as well as Joel Salatin of Polyface Farms. (Sound familiar? Salatin and his forward-thinking agricultural practices are featured in Michael Pollan's The Omnivore's Dilemma. If you haven't read it yet, this blogger highly recommends putting it at the top of your list!)

The film will be shown in room B 103 of the Harvard Northwest Building at 52 Oxford St. Tickets are $15. Click here to get yours!

Happy Earth Day!

2009-04-22T07:01:00.000-07:00

How to celebrate Earth Day, you ask? It's the perfect occasion to get involved in your local Slow Food chapter. By joining, you can stay in the loop about local slow food events, including everything from film screenings to gardening workshops to opportunities to sample some local, yummy food. Click here to find the chapter nearest you!

It's not too late for CSAs!

2009-04-18T12:08:00.000-07:00

Every year around this time I think, "Ooh, we need to join a CSA!" And, every year, I've missed my chance. For those of you who may be wondering, CSA stands for community supported agriculture, and allows interested consumers to partner with a particular farm for the season. Members benefit from knowing they will have a reliable, high-quality supply of locally-grown produce, which can usually picked up weekly in their own neighborhood. Farms benefit from the boost of out-of-season income, which arrives in the late Winter/early Spring, just in time to purchase the seeds and supplies they need to start the growing season. It's a clear win-win, and a great way to ensure the success, sustainability, and even growth of our local food supply. Because of this, it's a popular option, and shares at farms around the area usually book up quickly. By March or April, you're most often out of luck.

This year, however, there are still shares available at several area farms, including Red Fire Farm, an amazing organic farm in Granby, MA, which has spots open in Cambridge, Brighton, and Western Mass as of this writing. Shares are also still available at The Food Project, Stillman's Farm, and several others. Of course, I can't help but wonder if the unusual number of openings is due to our current economic situation, which also makes these available shares a cause for concern. I still think it's a great opportunity for those of us who, like me, often fail to think about fresh produce until the first daffodils begin to bloom. But, by the same token, it's all the more important that those of us who've been considering a CSA to take advantage of this moment; it's our chance to show our support for the farms and farmers who fill our markets each year with such a bountiful, healthful array of planet-friendly produce.

I've bought my share at Red Fire Farm. Where will you get yours?

Books on the Green

2009-04-16T15:38:00.000-07:00

In celebration of Earth Day next week, the fabulous Harvard Book Store will be offering their green delivery service for free! It's a great chance for Bostonites from JP to Charlestown to try out this ecologically friendly delivery method, thanks to the book store's partnership with Metroped, whose deliveries by bike are human (not petroleum!) powered.

Happy reading!

And...we're back!

2009-04-10T06:11:00.000-07:00

After a week in the Dominican Republic and a subsequent week of playing catch up with real life, I finally have a few moments here at my desk. A lot has happened during that time, including the start of a White House vegetable garden--hooray!--as noted here by Slow Food USA. Indeed, it's prime season for getting a garden going, and although my own back yard is covered in astroturf (my landlord's choice, not mine) and thus not seedling-friendly, I'll be heading out to the Farm at Long Island Shelter today to help them get their garden started. More details on that volunteer experience to come.

In the meantime, I give you this picture of a produce stand in the Dominican--a gorgeous a bounty of local fruits and veggies!

Yet Another Reason to Love our First Lady

2009-03-11T04:26:00.001-07:00

She's a locavore, and proud of it. Read about her views on making locally grown, unprocessed food available to all Americans.

Lights Out, from Boston to Bali

2009-03-10T11:55:00.001-07:00

Building on a very new tradition begun in Australia in 2007, Earth Hour 2009 will ask that people and cities around the world turn out the lights on March 28th, from 8:30-9:30. While turning the lights out for just one hour may seem like a tiny drop in a giant bucket, such gestures do matter. They send a signal to local, national, and world leaders that people do care about these issues, and they remind us all that global change begins with individual action. For more insight on the particular importance of this year's Earth Hour, give a quick listen to Lord Stern, IG Patel Professor of Economics and Government.

So, mark your calendars folks. Invite a few friends over, open a good bottle of wine, and light some candles. Enjoy a night of good company and conversation. Electricity not required.

A Beautiful Day in the Neighborhood

2009-03-06T06:02:00.000-08:00

These days, most of us are at least somewhat conscious of the benefits of supporting local businesses. In addition to creating (or more often preserving) unique, thriving neighborhoods with a strong sense of community, keeping it local can also help us to keep it green. A loaf of bread from your neighborhood bakery, for example, has a lot less petroleum behind it than a mass market loaf of bread that's been trucked across the country to your nearest Walmart.

Now, Boston Community Change has created an incredible program that allows even more members of our community to benefit when we make the decision to buy local. As stated on their website, Boston Community Change is "a tool to align our daily economic activities with our deepest human values." And the incentives they've created make it that much easier to move toward such an alignment. Every time you make a purchase with your Boston Community Change card at a participating vendor (there are over 200 as of this posting), not only do you get a cash rebate, but a portion of the sale price is also donated to your local Main Street organization, and a local community-based non-profit or school of your choice. It's a win, win, win, and all you need is a little plastic card.

Right now, for a limited time, cards are being made available for FREE for people who want to be come a member. It's a meaningful and easy way to be an agent for change in your own back yard, with just a few clicks of the mouse. Make your first click here to get started!